Issue link: https://www.ascpskindeepdigital.com/i/1539961
Protection. Education. Connection. There's an app for that at ascpskincare.com/app 73 Inclusive Excellence: Serving Diverse Skin Tones Sonya Lowery-Young, medical esthetician and cofounder of Peel Haus Aesthetics & Plastic Surgery in Washington, DC, specializes in treating clients of color and addresses the unique considerations for melanin-rich skin. "For Black and Brown clients, laser treatments must be handled with precision and education," Lowery-Young says. "Everything we do is guided by the Fitzpatrick scale, which tells us how skin responds to light and heat and how likely it is to develop hyperpigmentation or scarring after treatment." Lowery-Young says there's a persistent industry challenge: "Many clients of color still believe lasers aren't safe for their skin. We need to change this conversation through education." Her approach involves comprehensive client education about the Fitzpatrick scale and how modern laser technology has evolved. "The key is understanding that different wavelengths interact differently with melanin," Lowery-Young says. "Traditional intense pulsed light (IPL), often confused for laser treatment, works well for redness and sun damage but is best suited for lower Fitzpatrick types I–III. For Black and Brown skin, we look to true lasers with safer wavelengths." Technology Selection for Melanin-Rich Skin According to Lowery-Young, the most effective laser technologies for melanin-rich skin are: • Nd:YAG (1064nm)—best for laser hair removal on darker skin, targeting the follicle without overheating surrounding melanin. • Nonablative fractional lasers—best for texture issues and scarring by working beneath the skin without removing the top layer. 1 It's important to be cautious when using vascular lasers: "Potassium titanyl phosphate (KTP) and pulsed dye laser (PDL) used for redness and broken capillaries should be used only on deeper skin tones with extreme caution—melanin may absorb too much energy, leading to burns or pigment issues," Lowery-Young says. Pre- and Posttreatment Protocols for Skin of Color Lowery-Young's practice implements specialized pretreatment protocols that may include hydroquinone alternatives, kojic acid, or arbutin-based preparations to stabilize pigment before treatment. Posttreatment care requires particular attention to inflammation control and adjusting protocols based on individual response. Strategic Business Development Lowery-Young advocates for bundled treatment approaches that address specific concerns. "Offer solutions, not devices," she says. "Create a package like 'ClearTone,' featuring pigment-safe laser with brightening peels for hyperpigmentation." She also recommends developing signature treatments that speak to the specific needs of diverse clientele. Her practice's "Bounce Back" package combines nonablative fractional laser with PRX Derm Perfexion for collagen and firmness. Lowery-Young's practice works to build trust with communities of color through educational initiatives and transparent communication about treatment options, safety protocols, and realistic expectations. "We're not just treating skin—we're building confidence and changing perceptions about what's possible for all skin types," she says. Note 1. Grand View Horizon, "U.S. Medical Spa Market Size & Outlook, 2023–2030," accessed August 2025, grandviewresearch.com/ horizon/outlook/medical-spa-market/united-states. GETTY IMAGES