ASCP Skin Deep

AUTUMN 2023

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60 ASCP Skin Deep Autumn 2023 by Catherine Santino FROM DRUGSTORE TO PROFESSIONAL BRANDS, nearly every skin care line touts some form of retinol, usually with claims that it will reduce signs of aging like wrinkles, fine lines, and hyperpigmentation. With promises this lofty, it's understandable that consumers are eager to learn more about it, and as it turns out, retinol isn't just another skin care buzzword swirling around the internet—there's actually a great deal of clinical research that supports its efficacy. "Retinol is a vitamin A derivative that is an important component of normal functioning for many organs of the body," says Nava Greenfield, a board-certified dermatologist. "In skin care, we use retinols to help increase cell turnover, promote collagen production, regulate the size and function of sweat glands, and as an anti-aging ingredient, among other functions." "Vitamin A" and "retinol" are both used throughout this article, but in most cases, we're referencing retinol, since it's the most common form of vitamin A used in professional-grade skin care. Shannon Esau, CEO and national educator at Rhonda Allison Cosmeceuticals, breaks it down even further, clarifying why the terms retinoids and retinol are not interchangeable. "Retinoids are a family of vitamin A, starting from beta carotene, which converts into these other forms of vitamin A that we can now get today and utilize for skin, and eventually forms into retinoic acid in our bodies," she says. "Retinoic acid is the form of vitamin A that then gets utilized in the body to do so many things, like building collagen and elastin." IS RETINOL A SKIN CARE SUPERHERO? A closer look at the vitamin A derivative and its use on your clients

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