Issue link: https://www.ascpskindeepdigital.com/i/1507658
Exclusive member benefit: Get the ASCP SkinPro app at ascpskincare.com/skinpro 81 a reduction in TIMPs. The rst lesson here is for clients to wear sunscreen to reduce exposure to UVA rays. The second lesson is to recommend they nd great antioxidants to support TIMPs to keep the dermis in check. Speci cally, polyphenols are great for skin (like vitamins C and E, among others), and clients should get their daily dose topically and orally (through food and/ or supplementation under their doctor's guidance). THINNING SKIN Skin becomes crepey as we age—this is a re ection of our epidermis thinning. We want to exfoliate to keep cellular turnover in check (remember that cell turnover is 15–45 days based on our age, with the average cell turnover at 28 days). If we're in the aging process, we might be at the 45-day mark for cellular turnover. That looks like keratinized skin with ne lines (on top of the wrinkles resulting from collagen loss). We want to exfoliate, but overexfoliation is not a good thing (see ASCP Skin Deep Spring 2022, "Too Much of a Good Thing," page 37); we want to thicken the skin for plumpness. You should advise clients to exfoliate twice a week and apply plenty of vitamins A and B at night and vitamins C and E during the day to nourish their skin. The polyphenols found in fruits and vegetables will nourish their skin from the inside out. CELLULAR SENESCENCE Sometimes, when people we love get older, they become forgetful and can't properly care for themselves. This is similar to what happens in cellular senescence. Speci cally, the keratinocyte, melanocyte, and broblasts move into senescence. A senescent cell is characterized by its inability to proliferate and resistance to apoptosis (essentially getting rid of themselves). It can be induced prematurely because of direct and persistent DNA damage and oxidative stress (think too many UV rays and not enough antioxidants). The keratinocytes don't undergo mitosis as quickly, leading to thinning skin. Melanocytes either quit producing pigment, resulting in white spots, or they produce too much pigment, resulting in continual pigmentation issues. Fibroblasts aren't producing collagen, elastin, and glycosaminoglycans, so we see the onset of wrinkles and loss of elasticity. ADDRESSING SIGNS OF AGING SKIN How do we, as estheticians, address aging skin with our clients? The rst line of defense is a daily at-home skin care routine consisting of cleansing, exfoliating, applying treatment serums of vitamins A, B, C, and E, and then sealing it all in with a moisturizer and sunscreen. Remember that there isn't one miracle product that is going to do it all; it takes a series of products. You'll also want to recommend they schedule regular facials packed with antioxidants and gentle exfoliation. Let them know they should treat their skin from the inside out, with a balanced diet consisting of plenty of fruits and vegetables (polyphenols) and ample hydration. And of course, they'll want to get regular, moderate exercise. Help your clients of any age get started with the basics and soon they'll ease into a full routine to keep their skin looking its best. Collagen Elastin Glycosaminoglycans Glycosaminoglycans Collagen Elastin Glycosaminoglycans Young Skin Aging Skin