Issue link: https://www.ascpskindeepdigital.com/i/1507658
Exclusive member benefit: Get the ASCP SkinPro app at ascpskincare.com/skinpro 79 AS WE GET OLDER, our skin inevitably ages. I've experienced it, you've likely experienced it, and many of your clients have too. The truth is, skin aging starts in our 20s, whether we see it or not. As someone who knows a thing or two about skin aging, I'm excited to share my knowledge about collagen, thinning skin, and senescent cells (otherwise known as forgetful cells). There are factors that menopause has on the skin, but I'll leave the hormonal education to naturopathic physicians and endocrinologists. When looking at skin aging, we also need to consider glycation, which is a cross-linking of sugars and collagen called advanced glycation end products (AGEs), but that probably needs its own article. THE DERMIS Let's start with the dermis and consider our fibroblasts that produce (1) collagen, which gives our skin plumpness, (2) elastin, which gives our skin pliability, and (3) glycosaminoglycans, basically the fluid found surrounding our collagen, known as hyaluronic acid. When we're teens, our skin functions well, giving us plump, bright skin because our extracellular matrix (otherwise known as our dermis and the scaffolding supporting our epidermis) is in great shape. When skin first shows signs of aging in our 20s, we might start to see telangiectasias (blood vessels) at the surface of the skin. These vessels are intended to be at the dermal/epidermal junction and should be invisible. With age, this appearance indicates collagen loss. Normally, this aging process begins on the cheekbones, since that's the first place UVA rays reach—and damage—the skin. Keep in mind that UVA rays are the "aging" rays (versus UVB rays) and have longer wavelengths that reach into the dermis and stimulate matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs). To pronounce this term, you can break it down into "matrix," "metallo," and "proteinases." MMPs are enzymes (produced by fibroblasts) that chew up old collagen fibers so the fibroblasts can lay down new fibers and are essentially the cleanup crew of the dermis. However, because UVA rays stimulate MMPs, too much of this enzyme means the cleanup crew takes out too much collagen, resulting in the onset of collagen and elastin loss, which appears as wrinkles in the skin, telangiectasias, and pigmentation. There's something called tissue inhibitors of MMPs (TIMPs), which regulate the MMPs so they don't chew up too much collagen. However, with age also comes Because UVA rays stimulate MMPs, too much of this enzyme means the cleanup crew takes out too much collagen, resulting in the onset of collagen and elastin loss. by Lisa VanBockern