Issue link: https://www.ascpskindeepdigital.com/i/1507658
Exclusive member benefit: Get the ASCP SkinPro app at ascpskincare.com/skinpro 71 • Hydroquinone—effective for treating melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, lentigines, and freckles. However, common acute reactions include irritant and allergic contact dermatitis. Hypopigmentation may occur, but it is usually a temporary complication. These conditions are most often seen in Black individuals who use products containing high concentrations of hydroquinone for long periods of time. But such cases are rare in the US, and hydroquinone in a 2 percent concentration should only be placed on the affected area for a maximum of three months. • Kojic acid—like hydroquinone, it suppresses the production of melanin by inhibiting tyrosinase activity. It's most popular for treatment of melasma, though it can be unstable in some skin care formulations since it easily oxidizes. Products containing kojic acid are generally found in amber bottles to prevent exposure to sunlight. • Licorice extract—contains glabridin, which inhibits the tyrosinase activity needed to produce melanin. • Niacinamide—has shown effectiveness for reducing facial hyperpigmentation in Asian skin types, significantly increasing skin lightness after four weeks of use. 5 • Retinoids—vitamin A derivatives found to be highly effective topical agents for treating abnormal distribution of pigment—such as actinic lentigines, mottled hyperpigmentation, and solar-induced melasma—as they help remove the accumulation of visible damage from the upper layer of the epidermis. Retinoids can also fade excess pigment that accumulates in the lower layer of the epidermis and diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Commonly used retinoids include adapalene, retinaldehyde, tazarotene, and other third-generation retinoids. • Vitamin C—protects skin against sunburn and reduces UVB radiation-induced skin wrinkling. Vitamin C formulations are typically not irritating and have been shown to improve chloasma/melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. CONCLUSION Skin aging is entirely individual—some people experience more signs of skin aging earlier on in life while others don't experience any until they're older. In particular, the difference between aging skin in lighter versus darker skin comes down to a combination of genetics and environment. This is why it's so important to treat clients individually, taking into consideration the many factors at play causing their skin concerns before proceeding with treatments, recommendations, or at-home regimens. Notes 1. Jerry Tsai and Anna L. Chien, "Photoprotection for Skin of Color," American Journal of Clinical Dermatology 23 (January 2022): 195–205, link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s40257-021-00670-z. 2. William Montagna and Kay Carlisle, "The Architecture of Black and White Facial Skin," Journal of American Academy of Dermatology 24, no. 6 (June 1991): 929–37, sciencedirect. com/science/article/abs/pii/019096229170148U. 3. For any advanced procedure involving the removal of seborrheic keratosis, consult with a dermatologist specializing in skin of color first. 4. Tirza Areli Calderón et al., "Correlates of Sun Protection Behaviors in Racially and Ethnically Diverse US Adults," Preventive Medicine Reports 13 (March 2019): 346–53, sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S221133551830281X. 5. Tomohiro Hakozaki et al., "The Effect of Niacinamide on Reducing Cutaneous Pigmentation and Suppression of Melanosome Transfer," British Journal of Dermatology 147, no. 1 (July 2002): 20–31, academic.oup.com/bjd/article-abstract/147/1/20/6635091. Additional Causes of Skin Aging In addition to genetic factors, there are many lifestyle and environmental factors that accelerate skin aging, including: • Air pollution • Drinking alcohol • Inhaling workplace chemicals • Smoking cigarettes or inhaling secondhand smoke • Stress • Using illegal substances