ASCP Skin Deep

AUTUMN 2023

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Exclusive member benefit: Get the ASCP SkinPro app at ascpskincare.com/skinpro 69 Skin Discoloration Because UV rays can cause darkening of the skin and lesions, signs of skin aging—discoloration, dark spots, dark patches, and uneven complexion— may be the result of not wearing enough sun protection. Other potential factors of skin discoloration include medication side effects, hormonal changes, and buildup of dead skin cells. Though dark patches and discoloration may be the result of internal causes, darkening can be minimized with the use of sunscreen. AGING IN BLACK SKIN Photoaging may be more common in Black Americans because of their more heterogeneous (mixed race) ancestry than those of strictly African descent. Photoaging in Black skin can present as rough and dry texture, benign skin lesions, or dermatosis papulosa nigra (DPN). Rough Texture Rough skin texture—sometimes referred to as ashy skin—is often caused by dead skin cells not readily sloughing off the skin's surface. The skin appears rough and may have a grayish appearance, looking dull. The solution? Prioritize exfoliation. Your clients' skin care regimens should begin with a cleanser formulated for their skin type followed by a toner containing an AHA or BHA. These acids will break up the glue-like substance that's holding dead cells together. Complete the regimen with a moisturizer for dry skin or a water-based lotion for oily skin—and don't forget sunscreen. Provide an in-depth consultation to pinpoint the cause of the skin condition. Then, customize a skin care regimen to include a treatment plan featuring professional products and exfoliation services, plus home-care management products formulated for your client's needs. Regular skin care services and routine home care will result in luminous, soft-to-the-touch skin. Seborrheic Keratosis Seborrheic keratosis is a condition where benign skin lesions may appear like warts due to overgrowth of epidermal skin cells. The lesions may itch, and the accumulation of skin cells may form a rough, oily top layer. They may resemble moles and look as if they have been stuck on the skin. The fibroblasts in darker skin tones are more numerous and active and produce a higher density of collagen, resulting in fewer wrinkles and fine lines. There are several methods of treating seborrheic keratosis, 3 though cryotherapy is common. With this method, the benign lesions are frozen using liquid nitrogen, and generally fall off within one week of treatment. Dermatosis Papulosa Nigra DPN is similar to seborrheic keratosis and is characterized by dark brown papular lesions on the face, neck, and body. DPN tends to be a genetic disorder seen in both women and men. These mole-like lesions are more prevalent on Black and Asian skin. DPN and flesh moles are removed in much the same manner as seborrheic keratosis. Laser therapy is also an option, but risk factors include scarring, postoperative skin discoloration, and keloid formation. DPN can be treated surgically but may result in postoperative complications such as discoloration, scarring, or keloid formation. Consequently, a conservative treatment is advisable.

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