Issue link: https://www.ascpskindeepdigital.com/i/1507658
64 ASCP Skin Deep Autumn 2023 Retinol has proven effective for aging skin because it plays an active—and very important— role in your body's collagen production. RETINOL ALTERNATIVES It's no secret there are several retinol alternatives marketed toward those with sensitive skin, but according to Esau, such products usually aren't necessary. "There is no property of vitamin A that really should be exfoliating," she says. "It should just be a nutrient that builds and repairs the skin and helps with inflammation. Vitamin A itself can really be utilized on any skin type and be beneficial. It's got many reparative ingredients." However, Anna Guanche, a dermatologist, says that even an ingredient as widely lauded as retinol has its limits. "I find that most retinols are beneficial for most skin types but like everything in life, not everything works for everyone," she says. "Some people with sensitive skin or rosacea may not be able to tolerate strong topicals. Retinol also makes skin more sensitive to sunlight, so [clients should] wear sunscreen every day." Natural retinol alternatives are being explored and many have already hit the market, but research on their effectiveness in comparison to retinol is limited. Still, some of these alternatives can provide skin care benefits for certain individuals. For those who are pregnant, nursing, or otherwise intolerant to retinol, Greenfield points to Bidens pilosa, a plant extract that has anti- inflammatory properties. Another natural retinol alternative being researched is bakuchiol, a seed extract traditionally used in Ayurvedic and Chinese medicine, but there isn't enough data yet to officially classify it as a retinol alternative. 8 HOW OFTEN SHOULD CLIENTS USE RETINOL? According to Esau, when using the correct formula, those aged 45 or older should be able to use retinol every night without irritation. Because vitamin A does not stay stored in the body for long, she explains, regular application is needed to see the effects. "Whether you consume it or apply it on your skin, [vitamin A] is only utilized for about a 24-hour period, then it works itself out through the liver or through your cells in your body," she says. "Certain ingredients can stay stored in the body and be used later—vitamin A is not one of those. So, when people are only able to [apply retinol] twice a week because their skin becomes irritated, they're missing many nights when they need vitamin A to start really building that collagen and elastin, which is what truly slows down aging." Those in their 20s or 30s can likely get by using retinol a few times a week, Esau says, since collagen and elastin are typically functioning regularly at this age. "Especially if you have a healthier diet or you're a healthier person; our immune system affects these things," she says. Other factors, like environment, also play into how and when someone should use retinol. "If you're