Issue link: https://www.ascpskindeepdigital.com/i/1507658
Exclusive member benefit: Get the ASCP SkinPro app at ascpskincare.com/skinpro 35 WHAT WAS OLD IS NEW AGAIN Due to increased consumer consciousness, there's been a growing demand for natural skin care that also delivers desired results. Enter fermented ingredients. This category is gaining traction partially because of the aforementioned want for clean skin care and because of the rise in the popularity of fermented foods, fermented health drinks, and fermented vitamin supplements. As expected, more excitement equals more research equals a better understanding of efficacy. Though the practice of using fermented ingredients in the beautification of the skin has ancient roots, we have a modern understanding of why these potent players offer enhanced skin benefits. FERMENTS AND THE SKIN Fermented skin care ingredients use the same principles of centuries-old food production methods. By fermenting natural substances, the active compounds become more bioactive and potent, making them more easily absorbed and used by the skin. Fermented skin care ingredients can deliver enhanced results thanks to the beneficial compounds created during fermentation—such as proteins, ceramides, amino acids, and antioxidants, which help communicate with the skin more efficiently than their nonfermented counterparts. 2 According to a review of research from 2022, "Fermentation increases the biochemical and physiological activity of the substrate by converting high-molecular compounds into low-molecular structures, making fermented raw materials more compatible compared to unfermented raw materials." 3 BENEFITS OF FERMENTED SKIN CARE INGREDIENTS Fermented skin care ingredients, or bio-ferments, have increased the bioavailability and activity of other biologically active compounds. They help improve the natural balance of the skin and encourage skin health. • Improved absorption—Fermented ingredients go through a process that alters (breaks down) their molecular structure, making them smaller and more easily absorbed by the skin. The increased absorption allows for the possibility of a deeper penetration of nutrients, which increases efficacy and skin health. • Gentle exfoliation—Lactic acid and gluconic acid are fermented acids that initiate skin renewal. By initiating skin sloughing, they contribute to stimulating the skin's natural exfoliation, resulting in a smoother, brighter complexion without the consequence of significant inflammation. • Increased hydration—Acting as humectants that attract and retain moisture in the skin, fermented ingredients encourage hydration levels that, in turn, plump the skin. • Antioxidant protection—Fermented ingredients are loaded with antioxidant value (polyphenols and flavonoids) that protect from free radicals and reactive oxygen species, which cause cellular imbalance, oxidative stress, and skin aging. • Improved barrier function—As the skin's first line of defense, the barrier function should be a primary concern for every skin condition. The nutrients produced during fermentation help strengthen the skin's natural barrier function, enhancing skin defenses and maintaining a healthy, balanced complexion. By fermenting natural substances, the active compounds become more bioactive and potent, making them more easily absorbed and used by the skin.