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66 ASCP Skin Deep Spring 2025 GETTING STARTED: THE INITIAL CLEANSE Traditionally, an emulsion cleanser (or milk cleanser), which is a nonfoaming cleansing lotion or cream, is used to perform initial cleansing. Emulsion cleansers are more effective in removing makeup than foaming cleansers. They work as solvents for makeup ingredients that may not be water soluble. If the client is wearing a substantial amount of makeup, it is best to begin the cleansing with a thorough cleansing massage with a cleanser designed especially for makeup removal, such as an oil-based cleanser or theatrical makeup remover. This may be a cream cleanser, cleansing oil, or a thick, whipped petrolatum or beeswax-type product. The higher oil concentration in these products will serve as a solvent to break up mineral pigments, other oils, and talc. Massage the product in circular movements all over the face. Pay particular attention to the areas that are often missed: perimeter of the face, eye areas and corners, and corners of the nose. After the makeup removal, use a toner or astringent to remove remnants of the cleanser, or follow the initial makeup removal cleansing with a second cleanse using a lighter emulsion cleanser or a foaming cleanser. CHOOSING THE CORRECT CLEANSING PRODUCT The cleanser chosen for both in-spa treatment and at home depends on your analysis of the client's skin. Oily and Combination Skin Cleansers If your client has large pores spanning most of their face and their skin is obviously oily with many clogged follicles, comedones, and impactions, you should choose a cleanser designed for oily skin. Most cleansers for oily and combination skin contain a surfactant, which is an ingredient that helps remove excess sebum from the skin. A surfactant is the agent that causes foaming during use. The surfactant lifts excess sebum and oily substances off the skin's surface. The more surfactant a cleanser contains, the more it will foam and the more sebum will be removed. The difference between a cleanser for dry, combination, and oily skin is often the amount of surfactant the product contains. Surfactant cleansers can be helpful for oily and combination