Issue link: https://www.ascpskindeepdigital.com/i/1517908
66 ASCP Skin Deep Spring 2024 "All together with a long history as food source, mushrooms are important for their healing capacities and properties in traditional medicine," write the authors of a 2015 article in International Journal of Microbiology. "Many nutraceutical properties are described in mushrooms, such as prevention or treatment of Parkinson's disease, Alzheimer's disease, hypertension, and stroke risk. They are also utilized to reduce the likelihood of cancer invasion and metastasis due to antitumoral attributes. Mushrooms act as antibacterial, immune system enhancers, and cholesterol-lowering agents; additionally, they are important sources of bioactive compounds." 3 The nutrients in mushrooms also have numerous properties that make them beneficial for skin health. Calcitriol, the active form of vitamin D in mushrooms, regulates the growth of keratinocyte skin cells, which can trigger psoriasis. Kojic acid, a compound present in different types of fungi, is known as a treatment for melasma and other forms of hyperpigmentation. The selenium in mushrooms helps prevent ultraviolet (UV) damage as well as other free radical damage. Some mushrooms contain omega-3 fatty acids, which work to fight the inflammation that occurs with skin conditions like eczema. Chitin and chitosan, compounds found in the cell walls of fungi, help speed up wound healing and strengthen the skin barrier. 4 Despite the indisputable nutritional power of mushrooms, it's important to note that the scientifically proven benefits of mushrooms in cosmetics and skin care are limited. "Given the increasing interest in natural and botanical ingredients in skin care, many modern cosmetic and therapeutic formulations now integrate mushroom extracts for their potential benefits; for instance, reishi and Cordyceps extracts are commonly found in creams and serums aiming to provide anti-aging and skin rejuvenating benefits," write the authors of an article in the Journal of Food Biochemistry. 5 Those authors go on to write that, though empirical evidence over time has demonstrated the benefits of mushrooms in skin health, "rigorous clinical trials and scientific validations are essential; the precise mechanisms, safety profiles, and dosage regimens need to be established . . . bridging the gap between traditional practices and modern medicine requires a comprehensive understanding and validation of their pharmacological actions." 6 As it stands, most scientific studies proving the skin benefits of mushrooms have been performed either on mice as in vivo experiments or in test tubes as in vitro experiments and therefore, should be taken with a grain of salt. Clearly, more in-depth research is needed to support these findings, but the promising potential mushrooms offer for skin health means there are many reasons your clients may enjoy mushroom- infused skin care. MUSHROOMS IN SKIN CARE: THE HEAVY HITTERS Mushrooms have become increasingly common in skin care products and are largely used for their hydrating, anti- inflammatory, and antioxidant powers. Here are some of the most popular mushrooms popping up in the beauty space and how they can benefit the skin. Reishi Reishi (or lingzhi) mushrooms are characterized by their large size and dark, glossy exterior. Native to Asian countries, they have been used for medicinal purposes for centuries and are said to have immune-boosting, antioxidant, and antibacterial properties. Though limited, modern research supports the existence of these benefits. 7 When it comes to skin care, studies have shown that reishi can mitigate the effects of certain skin conditions. Its anti-inflammatory nature can be helpful in treating psoriasis and eczema, while reishi's antioxidants can offset hyperpigmentation. 8 "Reishi mushrooms are lauded for their powerful anti-aging and immune-boosting qualities," says Dr. Shuting Hu, biologist and founder and CEO of Acaderma. "They are loaded with beta-glucans, which allows them to fight off free radicals and other environmental stressors while providing anti-