ASCP Skin Deep

MARCH | APRIL 2019

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36 ascp skin deep march/april 2019 Among the Willows Help clients reduce inflammation and control excess oil with white willow extract by Kris Campbell There are several species of willow trees, each with their own unique extract. The type most commonly used in skin care is derived from white willow bark. The extract comes from the white willow tree (Salix alba), a medium-to-large perennial deciduous species. The name comes from the white tone on the underside of its leaves. This species is native to Europe and western and central Asia. WHAT IS IN WHITE WILLOW BARK? • Tannins: The extract of willow bark contains tannins. Found in bark and other plant-based tissue, tannins are highly astringent and are frequently found in toners and other skin care products to refine pores, making skin appear more youthful. They are also helpful in controlling excess oil found in acne-prone skin. expertadvice INGREDIENTS • Salicin: The name salicin (natural salicylic acid) comes from the willow tree genus salix. Salicin has wonderful anti-inflammatory properties. It's the ingredient used in aspirin to reduce body pains and swelling. Salicin has also been shown to relax wrinkles, reduce the appearance of pore size, and even out skin tone by reducing inflammation. The widely used beta hydroxy acid (BHA) salicylic acid is the metabolized derivative of salicin. • Polyphenols: Polyphenols are phytonutrients (nutrients found in plants). They are high in antioxidant activity, which helps both body and skin fight free radical damage, which in turn helps with premature aging of the skin's DNA. Polyphenols will also aid the skin in moisture retention. Phytonutrients even help protect against photodamage caused by exposure to the sun. The anti- inflammatory and antibacterial properties found in willow bark polyphenols provide relief for acne and other skin conditions, such as eczema, rosacea, and psoriasis. • Flavonoids: Flavonoids are a type of polyphenol. They are also high in antioxidant activity and excellent in fighting antiaging. The flavonoids work to fight free radicals, which helps slow down the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Their protection of the skin's barrier is also effective against environmental damage like that from UV exposure. Flavonoids have even been shown to inhibit photodamage after UV exposure.

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