ASCP Skin Deep

MARCH | APRIL 2019

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ascp now offers advanced modality insurance! ascpskincare.com/ami 37 WHITE WILLOW BARK = SALICYLIC ACID? There is common confusion that occurs because willow bark extract contains the anti-inflammatory salicin, which is a type of salicylate. When someone orally takes salicin, it is converted to salicylic acid during the digestive process. In a laboratory setting, salicin can be chemically oxidized to yield salicylic acid. That means willow bark is a source of salicylates (salicin), which may then be chemically converted into salicylic acid, but is not salicylic acid itself. Unfortunately, many skin care companies mislead their customers to believe that willow bark and salicylic acid are the same thing and yield the same results. Willow bark is not a true salicylic substitute. It is related to salicylic, but is not the famous BHA known for having great results on acne-prone or oily clients. SCALP BENEFITS The extract of white willow bark can be extremely beneficial for clients who have various scalp conditions like dandruff or oily scalp. The astringent properties of the extract may gently exfoliate the scalp. For clients with these conditions, the extract processed in a shampoo will become a gentle cleanser for the scalp and hair. Because it moisturizes the hair and scalp and balances the sebum, having willow bark in hair products will help make the scalp healthier. CONTRAINDICATIONS Clients who are allergic to aspirin-type products should not use white willow bark, as they may have a reaction on the skin if the product has a higher amount of willow bark. It may cause subtler visible signs versus a violent allergic reaction, but if an allergy to aspirin is indicated, it is better to err on the side of caution. THE BOTTOM LINE White willow bark is a wonderful natural ingredient for skin care, especially when helping sensitive clients. As long as there are no contraindications for the client, this ingredient can help calm inflammation in the skin that can show up visually as redness and puffiness, and can help reduce the swelling of pores. Reducing inflammation and protecting the barrier function will allow you to help with many skin care concerns, including acne, as well as keeping skin healthier between more aggressive professional treatments. Salicin has also been shown to relax wrinkles, reduce the appearance of pore size, and even out skin tone by reducing inflammation.

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