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28 ascp skin deep march/april 2019 Acne Facts The 6 basic principles of acne-prone skin by Mark Lees, PhD How many of your clients have acne-prone skin? Did you know it is one of the top reasons clients seek help from a skin care professional? It is vitally important for estheticians to understand the basics of acne- prone skin conditions to be able to provide the best care for these clients. 1. The first two factors in acne causation are genetic. The tendency to have both acne and clogged pores is hereditary. Clients who develop acne and acne flares easily have a genetic tendency to retention hyperkeratosis (RH), a condition that causes a build-up of dead cells on the skin surface and within the follicle. Instead of dead cells naturally desquamating from the skin, skin cells "stick" to the epidermal surface, causing a thick surface and "gathering" inside the follicles. The second genetic factor is oily skin and excessive sebaceous production. Clients inherit their oiliness level and pore size. The sebum coats the cell build- up in the follicles, causing a "clumping" of sticky dead cells there. As more cell buildup occurs and more sebum is secreted, this clump develops into a follicular impaction known as a comedo. 2. It is vitally important for both the esthetician and the client to be aware that genetic conditions cannot be changed. The symptoms caused by the genetic factors can be manipulated by treatment and products to clear the skin, but this does not change the hereditary factors. If treatment is discontinued, the genetic factors will cause clogging again, and the condition will reoccur in time. There is no cure for acne, only good clearing management techniques. 3. Oiliness levels are largely governed by androgenic hormones. Hormonal factors are a very important element in acne. While hormonal influences affect acne in both males and females, female clients with acne-prone skin are more likely to be affected by hormonal issues as adults. There is no cure for acne, only good clearing management techniques. expertadvice SKIN SOLUTIONS