Issue link: https://www.ascpskindeepdigital.com/i/556136
beyond the basics Mark Lees, PhD, MS, CIDESCO, is an award- winning speaker, clinical skin therapist, and product developer specializing in acne, and sensitive aging skin. He is the author of Skin Care: Beyond the Basics (Milady, 2011), The Skin Care Answer Book (Milady, 2010), and Clearing Concepts (Milady, 2013). Contact him at info@marklees.com or on Facebook at Mark Lees Skin Care. Common Causes of Impaired Barrier Function • Over-stripping the skin with detergent cleansers or soaps that are too strong for the oiliness level of the particular skin, or washing the skin too often. • Overuse of peels and exfoliating agents, including hydroxy acids or retinol, and exfoliating drugs such as tretinoin. • Overuse of peeling implements such as microdermabrasion or ultrasonic units. • Failure to protect the skin with proper moisturizers and/or sunscreen. • Unprotected environmental exposure to sun, wind, or cold, dry air. • In addition to these causes, as the skin ages, the cell renewal process slows and so does the production of intercellular lipids by the skin during the renewal cycle. Repairing the Barrier Function • Recommend that clients discontinue the use or overuse of detergent cleansers. Switch to low-foaming or no-foaming cleansers that gently cleanse without stripping. This step alone often makes a big improvement in sensitivity. • Suggest moisturizers that contain lipid ingredients called ceramides that "patch" the mortar in skin with impaired barrier function. Ceramides are great hydrators and make skin look smoother. Aging skin can greatly benefit from this ingredient. • Advise limited exposure to exfoliating products or drugs, and make sure clients use them properly. Often, you will find clients skip a step or fail to use sunscreen while using an exfoliant. • Perform lipid-based treatments in the salon that can help re-infuse the skin with better protection. Ceramides and other lipids can be mixed into eye creams, masks, serums, and sunscreens. • Encourage clients to use protective products and sunscreen when exposed to the environment. Learning to help your clients maintain a healthy epidermal barrier function can make their skin healthier and more beautiful, and will improve hydration, smoothness, texture, redness, and sensitivity. And healthy skin takes better care of itself!