ASCP Skin Deep

July | August 2014

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Formulation Advice One way to help clients is to offer a makeup evaluation service to ensure the client is using products that support her skin and will not make it worse. Have her bring in her array of products. Look at the age and cleanliness of the products and tools first. Does the makeup look like it has been used for months? Is it visibly dirty? Is the client using proper brushes, or just reusing the same sponges or eye shadow sticks that came with the products? Does she clean her brushes weekly? Next, check the ingredient deck (the detailed list on the label). If you don't have a strong knowledge of ingredients, I urge you to step up your understanding, either through advanced training or self-study. Understanding cosmetic chemistry will give you a huge advantage in your skin care work. The ingredient deck can give you an idea of how many active, inactive, helpful, or harmful chemicals are in the formula. A good rule of thumb for makeup is to look for products with as few ingredients as possible. I especially try to avoid products with fragrance, parabens, preservatives, the dyes known as FD&C Red, or a lot of thickeners and emulsifiers. Technique Advice Most female clients really enjoy a makeup consultation. They will usually purchase products after seeing the results. This can be offered as an add-on, but I recommend making it a 1.5-hour session. Market it with a "Makeup Update" or "Take the Years Off " theme. It is important to treat this as an educational session, not just a makeup application. The goal is for the client to achieve the same results at home. Choosing a color palette for your client is a valuable part of this consultation. You will find many clients have been using an unflattering base color, using colors that clash with their skin tone, or continuing to use the same colors that suited them when they were younger. Make sure your client has the right brushes to apply and blend makeup. Explain blending, show her how, and let her try it. Learning this simple technique can make a big difference. Using a makeup primer is another essential step that will make an instant difference. Susanne Schmaling, director of education for Associated Skin Care Professionals, is a licensed esthetician, experienced educator, former spa owner, founder of the Pacific Institute of Esthetics, author of A Comprehensive Guide to Equipment (Milady, 2009) and Aging Skin (Milady, 2011), and contributor to Standard Makeup (Milady, 2013). Contact her at sschmaling@ascpskincare.com. Special Event Makeup I love doing makeup for special events! Think beyond weddings when you create your marketing materials: many potential clients would love to have professionally applied makeup for a job interview, a special night out, or an important business presentation. The most important skills to develop if you plan to offer makeup services for special events are mastering the natural look, and high definition photo/video-friendly makeup application. Be Creative! These are just some ideas to boost your makeup services and boost your bottom line at the same time. Makeup is the most artistic, creative aspect of esthetics, so if it's an area that interests you, put that same creativity to work in developing ways to implement these services. Have fun with the concept, learn as much as you can, and enjoy. You should love what you do and see the impact it makes on your clients. Video Extra: Read this article online at www.ascpskindeepdigital.com to see a video demonstration of makeup application.

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