ASCP Skin Deep

July | August 2014

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Create your free business website! www.ascpskincare.com 33 Exclusively Distributed By Smooth Skin Supply www.ssmoothskinsupply.com 877-473-1032 The latest hair removal wax straight from Brazil. Be the rst one to try the Brazilian-style hard wax. Call or visit us online today. Call 877-473-1032 for your FREE sample. Getting results from your products requires scientifically proven active ingredients, in a base that is sebum-similar and skin-friendly so that the actives can penetrate to the desired level of the skin (usually, just below the stratum corneum or to the epidermal-dermal junction). Some Useful Active Ingredients Let's review some tried-and-true ingredients whose usefulness is backed up by clinical studies. Many are useful in more than one category. This list is not all-inclusive; it is just a look at a few of the great ingredients available. ALPHA LIPOIC ACID This antioxidant is excellent at quenching free radicals. It assists with key enzyme processes involved in converting glucose and other energy sources for use in the body. ARBUTIN Arbutin is a skin-lightening agent that inhibits the formation of melanin by inhibiting tyrosinase activity. It is used to alleviate hyperpigmentation caused by sun damage, prevent age spots and freckles, and regulate melanogenesis. BORAGE SEED OIL A botanical emollient, borage seed oil is the most economical source of gamma linolenic acid (GLA), an essential fatty acid that is useful for balancing skin lipids and moisturizing the skin. COQ10 CoQ10 has exceptional antioxidant properties and improves both the rate and efficiency of energy production in the skin cells. It is a vitamin-like substance with efficacy similar to that of vitamin E. It can increase tissue oxygenation, counteract free radical damage, and combat wrinkle formation. Skin care products that contain an active level of CoQ10 will have a slight yellow or light orange tint. CUCUMBER EXTRACT This anti-inflammatory, soothing ingredient has astringent and cooling properties. It has the ability to suppress melanogenesis, making it useful against hyperpigmentation, and it also helps regulate the rate of transepidermal water loss. FRUIT ENZYMES Fruit-derived enzymes can be anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, keratolytic, skin softening, and wrinkle smoothing. They increase the solubility of the corneocytes, assisting with exfoliation and increasing the skin's absorption of water and emollients. JOJOBA OIL The only botanical source of liquid wax esters, jojoba oil is extremely similar to the wax esters that make up approximately 20 percent of the skin's own sebum. It is an excellent dry-feeling emollient with good skin penetration ability. Each week, pick just one of your products and look up information on every ingredient listed on the label. LACTIC ACID This alpha hydroxy acid improves skin texture and hydration through exfoliation. It is also used in anti-wrinkle products since it stimulates collagen production. L-ASCORBIC ACID This water-soluble form of vitamin C is an antioxidant that assists in the production of collagen. It is also used as a skin brightener. RETINOL Retinol is a form of vitamin A with the ability to prevent fine lines and wrinkles. It is effective against free radicals and essential in many biochemical reactions within the cell, making it a helpful ingredient in antiaging and protective products. SHEA BUTTER This botanical emollient is excellent for skin hydration. It is also a good source of essential fatty acids, which help maintain the skin's acid mantle and support skin elasticity and flexibility. Your Greatest Strength Never be intimidated by the ingredients in professional skin care products. Product knowledge can become your greatest strength as an esthetician, and the ingredients list is an easy starting point. Each week, pick just one of your products and look up information on every ingredient listed on the label. You will soon be well informed and able to share that information with your clients. With your knowledgeable recommendations, your clients will achieve sensational skin. John Hill received his bachelor of science degree in chemistry from Virginia Tech in 1981, and has been a professional chemist for 33 years. Dave Waggoner is a licensed esthetician with experience as both an educator and practitioner. He has a master's degree in education and serves as director of education and public relations at Skin Script Skin Care in Tempe, Arizona. Contact him at education@skinscriptrx.com.

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