ASCP Skin Deep

July | August 2014

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Create your free business website! www.ascpskincare.com 27 Sunscreen While UV-B light is primarily responsible for causing sunburn, making it potentially the primary contributing factor to the development of skin cancers and premature aging, UV-A rays penetrate the skin more deeply, and are also known to play a major role in skin wrinkling and skin cancer. Ideally, we should protect the skin against both types of UV radiation. But even though exciting new skin care ingredients seem to appear daily, most sunscreen products are still locked into some combination of the same ingredients that have been used for decades: most often avobenzone, oxybenzone, titanium dioxide, and zinc oxide. Why? Current Ingredients, New Contenders All UV filters fall into two categories: chemical filters and physical (or mineral) filters. Each has advantages and disadvantages. Chemical filters absorb UV rays and can be more effective than physical filters against UV-A rays, but they either break down too fast or provide only limited protection. Physical filters are heavy and opaque; they work by preventing UV rays from reaching the skin, and don't break down as quickly, but are more difficult to use when formulating an elegant product. Here are some of the UV filters used in sunscreen, both here and in other countries. Approved in the United States • Chemical filters (UV-A protection): avobenzone, dioxybenzone, meradimate, oxybenzone, sulisobenzone. • Chemical filters (UV-B protection): aminobenzoic acid, cinoxate, ensulizole, homosalate, octinoxate, octisalate, octocrylene, padimate O, trolomine salicylate. • Physical filters (broad spectrum): titanium dioxide, zinc oxide. Awaiting FDA Approval • Amiloxate: Applied for approval in 2002. UV-B filter. Currently used in Asia and Europe. • Bemotrizinol (Tinosorb S): Applied for approval in 2005. The most effective broad-spectrum chemical filter on the market internationally. Highly photo-stable and helps prevent degradation of other active ingredients. Currently used in Australia and Europe. • Bisoctrizole (Tinosorb M): Applied for approval in 2005. Broad- spectrum hybrid filter that can both absorb and reflect UV, with minimal skin penetration. Currently used in Australia and Europe. • Drometrizole trisiloxane (Mexoryl XL): Applied for approval in 2009. Broad-spectrum chemical filter. • Ecamsule (Mexoryl SX): Applied for approval in 2007. Broad- spectrum chemical filter. Some products containing ecamsule have been on the US market since 2006, when the FDA approved those particular product formulations, but ecamsule as an individual ingredient has not yet been approved for use in other formulations. Used internationally since 1991. • Enzacamene: Applied for approval in 2002. UV-B filter. Currently used in Canada and Europe as a sunscreen at 4 percent concentration, and in lip balm, lipstick, and moisturizer. • Iscotrizinol: Applied for approval in 2005. UV-B filter with a small amount of UV-A protection. Currently used in Asia and Europe. • Octyl triazone: Applied for approval in 2002. UV-B filter with extremely high protection and good water resistance. Currently used in Asia and Europe.

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