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Expand your menu safely with ASCP's Advanced Esthetics Insurance at ascpskincare.com/aei 33 INGREDIENT DECK The Demand (and Benefits) of Epidermal Growth Factor by Ella Cressman EPIDERMAL GROWTH FACTOR (EGF) is becoming a buzzword in the skin care industry, but do we really understand how it works and why it's suddenly a "must-have" for skin care professionals and the public? This naturally occurring protein plays an important role in skin regeneration and repair. As we age, or if we have any type of skin condition, skin regeneration and repair become increasingly more important. Yet with age, our natural ability to produce eff ective EGF dwindles. For professional skin care practitioners, understanding the benefi ts of EGF and the growing list of products that contain it can help with recommending eff ective treatments and products to clients. WHAT IS EPIDERMAL GROWTH FACTOR? EGF is a protein that stimulates cell growth, proliferation, and diff erentiation. Initially discovered in the 1960s, EGF has since found application in various medical fi elds, including wound healing and dermatology. In skin care, EGF works by binding to specifi c receptors on the skin cells and initiating a series of cellular processes that leads to skin renewal and repair. THE SCIENCE BEHIND EGF When EGF binds to a receptor on the cell surface, it activates a series of intracellular signaling pathways. • Cell proliferation—EGF promotes the growth and division of skin cells. Healthy, youthful, functioning skin has a certain rhythm of reproduction. With age (or skin condition), that rhythm is slowed or interrupted. Encouraging healthy cell proliferation results in strong, smoother skin. • Collagen production—EGF stimulates fibroblasts to produce collagen, which is essential for maintaining skin elasticity and firmness. By encouraging flexibility in the skin, EGF helps skin better serve its purpose to protect. • Wound healing—EGF accelerates the healing process by promoting cell migration and proliferation at the wound site. This is especially important when considering skin conditions like acne, rosacea, eczema, psoriasis, and some forms of hyperpigmentation. THE CHALLENGE The use of EGF in topical solutions presents several challenges in skin care formulation. In its natural molecular state, EGF is large, which inhibits its ability to penetrate the skin barrier eff ectively. While EGF can enter the skin through hair follicles and sweat glands, this natural route is often not enough to achieve the maximum benefi ts of brighter, tighter skin. Researchers have developed various methods to enhance EGF delivery, like chemical modifi cations with lipophilic molecules, using compromised skin (after microneedling or laser resurfacing), and using advanced drug delivery systems and nanotechnologies to stabilize recombinant human EGF (rhEGF). Despite these challenges, studies have shown that it is possible for topical EGF to signifi cantly improve skin fi rmness, hydration, wrinkle reduction, and overall skin appearance when it's able to successfully bind to EGF receptors on cells like fi broblasts (stimulating collagen and elastin production). In the case of topical EGF, formulation and technology are keys to eff ectiveness.