ASCP Skin Deep

SPRING 2024

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ASCP SkinPro got a glow-up! Check out new app content at ascpskincare.com/skinpro 39 should include an oil-balancing component, such as niacinamide.4 One of its many abilities is to encourage equilibrium in sebum production. This balancing act, combined with its ability to reduce inflammation, makes it an excellent soldier in the fight against acne and related concerns. REDUCING THE OPPORTUNITY FOR HYPERPIGMENTATION Hyperpigmentation is a consequence of many skin conditions, with inflammation being a significant culprit. Reducing the opportunity for inflammation reduces the opportunity for melanin to be called into action to protect from whatever is causing the irritation. (Niacinamide to the rescue . . . again.) Niacinamide also prevents melanosome transfer to keratinocytes, effectively reducing the opportunity for hyperpigmentation. For example, in a clinical trial performed over a four-week period, 138 subjects were given a skin care formulation that included niacinamide for daily use. The results were objectively calculated by computer analysis and showed a 35–68 percent inhibition of melanosome transfer.5 We can theorize that continued use of a product containing the background. Niacinamide's reputation has expanded as more studies highlight its role in improving skin barrier function, reducing redness, and addressing issues like hyperpigmentation. The ingredient has returned to formulations and is more popular than ever. IMPROVING SKIN BARRIER FUNCTION Barrier function is an essential protective feature that keeps the good stuff in and the bad stuff out (see "Is Your Client's Skin Barrier Compromised?" page 31). Its importance cannot be overemphasized. We can often identify an imbalance or weakened barrier function. It's one of the first considerations in analyzing skin. Niacinamide plays a helpful role in reinforcing the skin's barrier by enhancing its ability to retain moisture and protect against environmental damage. 2 By boosting the production of ceramides, a crucial component of the skin barrier, niacinamide helps fortify the skin against external aggressors. PROVIDING ANTI-INFLAMMATORY BENEFITS Many skin conditions are the result of, or cause, inflammation. Whether you're navigating ways to calm it or avoid it completely, inflammation is always something you should consider during treatments. Niacinamide is well known for its anti-inflammatory properties and its ability to soothe redness and inflammation associated with conditions like rosacea and acne. Additionally, research has shown niacinamide has the capability of reducing ultraviolet (UV)-induced erythema and skin surface inflammatory biomarkers, which support its potential to prevent premature skin aging.3 Using a formulation that contains niacinamide has the potential to calm inflamed skin. MINIMIZING THE OPPORTUNITY FOR ACNE Acne vulgaris is caused by the perfect storm of an oil production imbalance, cell proliferation imbalance (specifically keratinocytes), and inflammation. Controlling oil production is a key factor in managing acne formation. In some acne presentations, there is too much oil production, and the overabundance leads to "clogging." In other acne presentations, there is too little sebum production, causing slow, sludgy sebum to get stuck in a follicle. Effective treatment of acne Niacinamide plays well with other active ingredients, enhancing overall treatment results and minimizing adverse reactions. INGREDIENT DECK

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