ASCP Skin Deep

SPRING 2024

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INGREDIENT DECK NIACINAMIDE'S VERSATILITY IN FORMULATIONS Its stability and compatibility with various pH levels allow practitioners to include niacinamide in many types of skin care formulations without compromising efficacy. Standard formulations include niacinamide concentrations between 2 and 10 percent. Higher concentrations should be approached with caution, especially when introducing it as a new ingredient in a routine and with sensitive skin. Niacinamide plays well with other active ingredients, enhancing overall treatment results and minimizing adverse reactions. It's great when complemented with hydrating agents like hyaluronic acid and other antioxidants. With its rich history and diverse range of skin benefits, niacinamide has earned its place as a skin care essential. The universal acclaim for niacinamide lies in its proven ability to tackle a slew of skin issues effectively and gently. From enhancing the skin barrier to addressing specific concerns like redness, hyperpigmentation, and skin aging, niacinamide stands as a key player in the journey toward radiant skin. It's a nod to the recent release of research reminding the skin care community that niacinamide is an essential ingredient for healthy, vibrant skin. It's not that niacinamide is making a comeback—it's been brightening, balancing, and rejuvenating for years. Notes 1. Piyush Madaan, Priyanski Sikka, and Deepinder Singh Malik, "Cosmeceutical Aptitudes of Niacinamide: A Review," Recent Advances in Anti-infective Drug Discovery 16, no. 3 (2021): 196–208, pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/34844552. 2. Zoe Diana Draelos, Keith Ertel, and Cindy Berge, "Niacinamide- Containing Facial Moisturizer Improves Skin Barrier and Benefits Subjects with Rosacea," Cutis 76, no. 2 (August 2005): 135–41, pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/16209160. 3. John C. Bierman et al., "Niacinamide Mitigates SASP-Related Inflammation Induced by Environmental Stressors in Human Epidermal Keratinocytes and Skin," International Journal of Cosmetic Science 42, no. 5 (October 2020): 501–11, pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/32657437. 4. Zoe Diana Draelos, Akira Matsubara, and Kenneth Smiles, "The Effect of 2% Niacinamide on Facial Sebum Production," Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy 8, no. 2 (June 2006): 96–101, pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/16766489. 5. T. Hakozaki et al., "The Effect of Niacinamide on Reducing Cutaneous Pigmentation and Suppression of Melanosome Transfer," British Journal of Dermatology 147, no. 1 (July 2002): 20–31, pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/12100180. 6. Yong Chool Boo, "Mechanistic Basis and Clinical Evidence for the Applications of Nicotinamide (Niacinamide) to Control Skin Aging and Pigmentation," Antioxidants 10, no. 8 (August 2021): 1315, www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8389214. ASCP SkinPro got a glow-up! Check out new app content at ascpskincare.com/skinpro 41 niacinamide would increase the inhibition. So, recommending a client incorporates niacinamide into their daily skin care routine could contribute to a more even-looking complexion over time. PREVENTING AND REPAIRING SKIN AGING Aging happens; it's inevitable. But that doesn't mean we must wave the white flag and surrender to lackluster complexions. Preventing skin aging does not have to be superficial. Rather than "anti-aging," we can think of it as "pro" skin health with niacinamide as an important part of the journey. Niacinamide is a front-runner in preventing skin aging, with studies showcasing its capacity to provide antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits, inhibit melanin transfer, and signal fibroblasts and collagen synthesis.6 pavel danilyuk/pexels

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