ASCP Skin Deep

SPRING 2024

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ASCP SkinPro got a glow-up! Check out new app content at ascpskincare.com/skinpro 31 Is Your Client's Skin Barrier Compromised? Identify the root problem and help repair the damage by Lisa VanBockern WE'VE HEARD THE TERM COMPROMISED BARRIER, but what does it mean and what does it look like? Healthy skin has a healthy acid mantle barrier that protects it from foreign invaders or viruses and unwanted bacteria. A healthy barrier will have antioxidants, such as vitamins A, B, C, D, and E, received internally and topically. It will have an intact lipid bilayer system with ceramides that act as emulsifiers of oil and water in the skin. Healthy skin is also well-hydrated with oil and water regardless of skin type. There are two major factors at play with the skin barrier: (1) The acid mantle, with a pH value of 4.5–5.5, is at the surface of the skin and is a combination of sebum and perspiration, and (2) the lipid bilayer is in the stratum granulosum and prevents transepidermal water loss and harmful viruses from entering the skin (Image 1). The acid mantle is formed by sebaceous and sudoriferous glands within the pores/ follicles. The lipid bilayer system consists of a proper balance of water, oil, and ceramides that are formed by keratinocytes breaking down its contents at this layer and eventually flattening to become dry, dead corneocytes. If we are dehydrated from lack of drinking water or not ingesting the proper oils (e.g., omegas 3, 6, and 9), the acid mantle and lipid bilayer Image 1 Healthy Skin Barrier Epidermis Dermis Allergens • Bacteria Allergens • Bacteria Compromised Skin Barrier Nerve Moisture Moisture Nerve SKIN PHYSIOLOGY

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