ASCP Skin Deep

AUTUMN 2022

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New member benefit! Get the ASCP SkinPro app at ascpskincare.com/skinpro 65 Regenerative Beauty According to Brianne West, CEO and founder of Ethique Skin Care, "regenerative beauty" is the practice of "giving more to the planet and its people than you ever take. It's essentially the next step after sustainability, which is replenishing what you use." She warns that "the growing pace of climate change, following years of unsustainable practices by big businesses, makes it essential for as many businesses as possible to take the extra step of regeneration." Ethique's regenerative policies include a climate- positive status and reduction of emissions wherever possible. For example, the brand's shampoo bar uses home-compostable packaging to actively return nutrients to the soil, supports ocean protection and reforestation via the Ethique Foundation, and creates direct trade partnerships to support the growth of its producers. "We've always taken the approach that as long as our shampoo bar formulations are as good as—if not better than—the liquid equivalent, then the rest will follow. All our hair care bars are salon quality, pH balanced shampoo or conditioner—never, ever soap." According to West, Ethique has seen a boom in business. "I think it's all part of a growing public desire to 'vote with their dollar' and support businesses that share their values. The pandemic has definitely added to that, but so has increased climate awareness and the visibility of social justice movements." Waterless Beauty Korean beauty originated the practice of waterless beauty in 2015 as a way to remove "filler" items from beauty products and benefit skin with more luxurious ingredients. Since water is the beauty industry's most used ingredient, it was a great "filler" to remove. It helps to not only conserve water, but also lessen the carbon footprint of a product, since water is heavy to transport. Removing water from products also eliminates the need for preservatives to prevent bacteria growth. But is "waterless beauty" a viable and lasting trend? West thinks so. "Concentrated products are definitely here to stay," she says. "Ten years ago, shampoo bars becoming mainstream was unthinkable . . . Now the formulations are better than ever, and, as a result, consumers are finding it's intuitive to wash hair with a bar." Circular Beauty Circular beauty sounds fancy, but it's simply the practice of upcycling waste products to make "new eco-conscious beauty products." 13 UpCircle Beauty is one company that salvages food and beverage by- products from manufacturers that are destined for landfills. Another company, Emma Lewisham, became the world's first circular and carbon-positive beauty brand, moving its sustainability model from a linear model to a circular one. The brand is offering step- by-step guides on its website so other companies can follow in its footsteps and "help make [the] transition to a circular beauty business as simple and supported as possible." 14 Blue Beauty Blue beauty is focused on helping brands achieve an ecologically responsible level of sustainability, Is It Truly Sustainable? And Other Questions to Ask According to the NYU Stern Sustainable Share Index, across all categories, sustainability- marketed products delivered $113.9 billion in sales in 2018 and are expected to grow to $140.5 billion by 2023. 15 Here are key questions to consider when looking into the sourcing of sustainable ingredients, manufacturing and packaging processes, and marketing practices. • What values drive the company? Are they certified cruelty-free and vegan? • Are skin and environmental health a concern? What about ethical ingredient sourcing and worker treatment? • What messaging is used for products? Do they practice greenwashing? • Are they accredited by any sustainability associations? Do they support Earth-friendly organizations and charities?

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