ASCP Skin Deep

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2015

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Create your free business website! www.ascpskincare.com 9 beyond the basics Guard Duty The Barrier Function of the Epidermis by Mark Lees The structure of epidermis has been compared to a brick wall. The "bricks" are the epidermal cells, and the barrier lipid complex is the mortar between the bricks. The barrier lipids hold essential moisture in the skin and block potential irritants from penetrating the epidermis. When the barrier lipid complex is damaged, the skin can become dehydrated and much more sensitive. Without the mortar between the bricks, water can easily escape from the skin and inflammatory agents can easily penetrate the epidermis. Signs of Impaired Barrier Function Chapped skin is a great example of an impaired barrier function. Extreme cold and windy winter weather can strip skin of intercellular lipids, allowing skin to become dry, rough, and cracked. Spilling lemon juice on your hand does not normally hurt, but how does it feel on chapped skin? It burns and stings because the lemon juice is penetrating the epidermis through holes in the lipid mortar and the acidic juice is coming in contact with nerve endings at the epidermal-dermal junction. Redness is much more of a problem when the barrier is impaired. Irritating substances, including cold or heat, penetrate the skin more easily, setting off immune responses resulting in redness. When the immune system is alerted to any problem in the skin, redness can occur due to the blood bringing immune cells to the site. Impaired barrier function is therefore a frequent problem for sensitive, redness-prone skin, such as clients with rosacea. Simply re-establishing the barrier lipids will quickly make the skin less red, smoother, firmer, and have a much better texture and feel. Got a skin question for Mark Lees? Send it to editor@ascpskincare.com! As we know from basic skin care training, the epidermis is constantly replacing itself via the cell renewal process. Cells divide in the basal layer and then journey to the corneum through the keratinization process. It is this process that not only refreshes the look of the skin, but also helps the skin heal and repair injuries. Most importantly, it is the cell renewal process that is responsible for the formation of intercellular lipids, the precious mix of fats that form the skin's barrier function. Structure of the Epidermis Stratum corneum Stratum lucidum Stratum granulosum Stratum spinosum Stratum basale Dermis

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