Issue link: https://www.ascpskindeepdigital.com/i/191415
ascp and you: finer points Chemical Exfoliation Making the Best Choices by Susanne Schmaling Much of our work as estheticians focuses on repairing the skin's protective barrier. So what about chemical exfoliation, where we use acids and enzymes to break down the outer layers of skin cells? Isn't that counterproductive? All exfoliation methods work by removing dead skin cells (keratolytic action) and increasing cell turnover (desquamation). Start by understanding the different levels of chemical exfoliation and knowing which ones are allowed within your state's scope of practice. As always, make sure you have adequate training and liability coverage for any treatment you intend to perform. The goal of chemical exfoliation is to temporarily destroy the barrier in a controlled way, encouraging the skin to repair and renew itself. When done correctly, it is one of the esthetician's best tools. Chemical exfoliation should only be performed on clients who will be compliant with their home-care routine. The client's stress level and amount of sun exposure are other important lifestyle factors to ask about. If you have a client who spends a lot of time outdoors, this will affect all exfoliation treatments. Assess the Client A one-size-fits-all approach is never a good idea, and definitely not when it comes to a peel. Not all skin types can handle chemical exfoliation. In addition to a good skin assessment, you should take a number of other factors into account. 1. ARE THERE LIFESTYLE ISSUES? How Deep? Superficial Exfoliates only the stratum corneum. Products used are alpha and beta hydroxy acids (AHAs and BHAs) and proteolytic enzymes. Common ingredients include glycolic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid, and papain enzyme. Light Exfoliates the upper part of the epidermis (not beyond the dermal-epidermal junction). Products are those used for superficial peels, plus modified Jessners peels, trichloroacetic (TCA) peels below 20 percent, and blended peels (for example, lactic acid with TCA). There is more risk of skin irritation and injury than with superficial exfoliation. Estheticians can do these Medium/Deep Peels at these depths involve the destruction of live tissue and must be administered by medical professionals only. 34ASCP Skin Deep November/December 2013 Only doctors can do these