Issue link: https://www.ascpskindeepdigital.com/i/191415
A one-size-fits-all approach is never a good idea, and definitely not when it comes to a peel. 2. WHAT ABOUT FITZPATRICK TYPE? Lighter skin can handle more aggressive exfoliation techniques. With darker skin (Fitzpatrick types III–VI), there is an increased risk of hyperpigmentation and other damage if precautions are not taken. Read "Peels and Hyperpigmentation" (ASCP Skin Deep, July/August 2012, page 12) for more information. 3. DOES THE SKIN HAVE GOOD HEALING ABILITY? The more you know about how a client's skin may respond, the better. If a client heals slowly—one sign is discoloration in previously damaged areas—extra care must be taken. Adjust this sample plan according to your client's individual situation. With proper progression and consistent home care between professional treatments, the results of a chemical exfoliation series can be outstanding. Stay within your scope of practice, and check with your product manufacturers for specialized training and directions for the correct use of their products. If you have questions on this topic, feel free to email me at sschmaling@ascpskincare.com. 4. IS THE GOAL REALISTIC? The answers to the previous questions will help you decide whether the client's desired outcome is achievable. Many clients expect a quick fix. If you need to say no to a client or give her a polite reality check, always explain why. Keep a diagram or model of the skin's structure to educate your client about why it takes time to achieve lasting, visible changes. Develop Your Treatment Plan Below is an example of a gentle, progressive exfoliation series that can be done over three visits, with at least two weeks between each visit for proper skin-barrier repair. Susanne Schmaling, director of education for Associated Skin Care Professionals, is a licensed esthetician, experienced educator, former spa owner, founder of the Pacific Institute of Esthetics, and author of A Comprehensive Guide to Equipment (Milady, 2009). Contact her at sschmaling@ascpskincare.com. Visit Treatment Home Care 1 Skin assessment. Gentle enzyme. Mechanical exfoliation (ultrasonic spatula, scrub, or single-pass microdermabrasion). Prep for next treatment with mild glycolic acid serum. Focus on hydrating skin and daily SPF 30+. 2 Lactic acid exfoliation. Deep hydrating mask. Serum with technology to assist penetration (galvanic, microcurrent, or ultrasound). Stop glycolic acid serum. Focus on barrier-repair products and nonchemical sunscreen. 3 Blended peel (modified Jessners, or lactic/TCA 10 percent) followed by soothing repair products. Healing and soothing products. Nonchemical sunscreen (SPF 45+) with double application in the morning. Get connected to your peers @ www.skincareprofessionals.com 35