Issue link: https://www.ascpskindeepdigital.com/i/992432
www.ascpskincare.com 81 Azelaic acid (up to 15 percent) is created by oxygenating oleic acid, an unsaturated fatty acid found in milk fats and grains such as barley and wheat. This is used as a lightening, lifting, and antibacterial agent. Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid extracted from the willow and birch tree. It is a relatively safe, low-risk acid, as it is self-neutralizing and produces a drying and lifting effect. It also dissolves layers of the epidermis and, depending on the percentage used, can create heavy lifting of the cells. Jessner is a combination of lower-strength acids (salicylic, resorcinol, and lactic, all at 17 percent) that synergizes to produce an efficient exfoliating agent with less risk. TCA will penetrate only if it is used in an aqueous base. It is nontoxic, self-neutralizing, and keratolytic, and is very effective in low strengths. It can be used alone or in tandem with other acids to disrupt the cells to create deep exfoliation. Retinol is a vitamin A derivative that converts to retinoic acid. It is a DNA regulator that assists in collagen synthesis, aids in the formation of blood vessels, and encourages healthy cell formation. Retinols are important to support the cellular injury caused by other acids. These acids all fall in the superficial range and are some of the most commonly used peeling agents. NEXT-GENERATION ACIDS Beyond the tried-and-true classics, there are now a bevy of new acids, couture formulations, and unique blends that deliver amazing, pro-youth results. These include flower acids, malic and tartaric acids, and vitamin A boosted with peptides. Flower acids: Obtained from hibiscus chalices and lotus root, these acids give back to the skin cells and are much friendlier to the skin than most other choices. The properties range from high antioxidant support to increasing hydration in the skin while creating lifting and exfoliation. Malic acid, tartaric acid, and red wine vinegar: Wine vinegar extract is rich in resveratrol, a potent antioxidant and free-radical scavenger. It also has anti-inflammatory properties, stimulates cell proliferation and collagen synthesis, and inhibits proteases. Malic and tartaric regenerate, firm and tone, and deliver vital nutrients to the skin. Hydrogen peroxide, AHAs, and salicylic: This blend is highly beneficial for photodamaged skin. It stimulates blood flow and oxygenation, brightens skin tone, and reduces pigmentation. Hydrogen peroxide delivers brightening benefits and antibacterial support, and it synergizes with other acids to assist with absorption. Glycolic, L-lactic, and salicylic rejuvenate, hydrate, and strengthen collagen.