Issue link: https://www.ascpskindeepdigital.com/i/992432
80 july/august 2018 There is an art form to peeling the skin, and with the proper knowledge and training, esthetic professionals can not only help their clients achieve the results they've been striving for, but also quell any reservations they have around receiving peel treatments. PEELING BACK THE LAYERS OF PEEL TREATMENTS Though the idea of using enzymatic agents to rejuvenate the skin has been around since ancient Egyptian times, chemical peels didn't come into practice in dermatology until the late 1800s. At that time, salicylic acid, resorcinol, phenol, and trichloroacetic acid (TCA) were primary choices for rejuvenating and brightening the skin. Over the decades, dermatologists around the world began experimenting with different formulations and applications. As they published their results, it didn't take long before chemical peels became a top choice among skin care professionals for achieving optimal skin health over the long term. So what exactly happens during a peel? When you apply highly specialized acids and enzymes to the skin, you begin to create a controlled injury that rapidly increases the process of mitosis to reveal healthy, glowing skin. Treatments vary in intensity, and both desired results and client needs will determine which is best to use. Intensities include: Progressive peels: The mildest of treatments, these peels only remove the stratum corneum and sometimes visible peeling doesn't happen. These are best performed in a series of 3–6 treatments, 1–2 weeks apart. Mid-depth peels: Affecting the intra-epidermal layer, exfoliation from these peels will generally occur within 2–3 days and requires minimal downtime. These may be performed monthly for as long as needed. Deep peels: Reaching the deepest intra-epidermal layers and portions of the dermal layer, a deep peel will cause the skin to undergo considerable peeling. Downtime will be about 7–10 days. These are best administered at least six weeks apart, and it is not recommended to do more than three per year. Based on the intensity, the client's goals, and the client's skin type, there are certain acids better suited for the job than others. And today, we have more acids at our disposal than ever before. A VAST SEA OF ACID FORMULAS Every acid has a specific purpose and effect on skin cells and tissue regeneration. Here are some classic tried-and-true acids: Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are naturally occurring, nontoxic, organic acids. The most commonly used include glycolic acid and lactic acid. These acids loosen the desmosome junctions (a glue-like substance) that hold the cells together.