Issue link: https://www.ascpskindeepdigital.com/i/581665
beyond the basics Mark Lees, PhD, MS, CIDESCO, is an award- winning speaker, clinical skin therapist, and product developer specializing in acne and sensitive aging skin. He is the author of Skin Care: Beyond the Basics (Milady, 2011), The Skin Care Answer Book (Milady, 2010), and Clearing Concepts (Milady, 2013). Contact him at info@marklees.com or on Facebook at Mark Lees Skin Care. Types of Exfoliation There are two main types of exfoliation: mechanical and chemical. Mechanical exfoliation works by physically removing the dead cells. Examples of mechanical exfoliation are microdermabrasion, the use of an ultrasonic blade, brush machines, or the use of granular scrubs. Gommages that are rolled on the face are also examples of mechanical exfoliation. Chemical exfoliation, also referred to as chemoexfoliation, can be an in-salon or in-clinic application of alpha hydroxy acids such as glycolic or lactic acid, salicylic acid, or enzymes. Alpha hydroxy and beta hydroxy acids work by loosening the bonds between the cells and causing them to fall off the skin surface. Enzymes work by dissolving the keratin protein in the dead cells. Stronger peels such as Jessner's, Unna, or TCA are more aggressive chemical exfoliants that remove more of the corneum, and also have more side effects, such as visible peeling and excessive dryness, which require downtime for the client. Light chemical at-home exfoliation by the client on a daily basis using a low-percentage alpha hydroxy acid, salicylic acid, or a mix of acids can improve myriad skin imperfections. Normally in the form of a serum, these daily exfoliant products not only help with skin surface and aging skin conditions, they also can help with conditions such as clogged pores and acne-prone skin. Combined with a melanin suppressant or brightening product, they can also help improve hyperpigmentation conditions. When using daily chemoexfoliants, clients must avoid excessive sun exposure and use a daily broad-spectrum sunscreen of SPF 30 or higher. Clients unwilling or unable to comply with sun precautions should not have chemoexfoliation. Clients using exfoliation products should also use proper moisturizing and cleansing products suitable for their skin types. Summary Exfoliation can be beneficial for many skin conditions, but overuse of exfoliation treatments and products can cause irritation and actually worsen esthetic conditions. A sensible program coordinating salon treatments and home-care exfoliation products can make a big difference in the appearance of your client's skin. • Improve skin smoothness and firmness • Reduce skin splotchiness and discoloration • Increase radiance and reduce dullness • Improve the ease and appearance of makeup application Regular exfoliation, both in the spa and at home, can: • Improve moisture and combat skin dryness • Allow for better absorption of other treatment products