Issue link: https://www.ascpskindeepdigital.com/i/191415
found in foods, is water-soluble; this is ideal for dietary use, allowing the vitamin to work both inside and outside the cell walls to reduce free radical damage, but when used externally, it will often oxidize too quickly to penetrate into the dermis. Lipid-soluble derivatives are the primary choice for external use because they allow vitamin C to penetrate the lipid barrier of the skin into the dermis to stimulate collagen production. External products also allow for a more direct route of administration since they can be applied to the areas most in need of improvement or protection. Here are some of the most common varieties you may see on a label. ASCORBIC ACID Also known as L-ascorbic acid or L-xyloa ascorbic acid, this is the natural form of pure vitamin C, derived from citric acid. It is highly unstable and loses its efficacy when exposed to light, air, or heat. It is most commonly used in dietary supplements. When it is used in skin care products (primarily for exfoliation), it is not recommended for clients with sensitive skin. TETRAHEXYLDECYL ASCORBATE A mixture of calcium carbonate and ascorbic acid that provides both vitamin C and calcium, calcium ascorbate's main commercial use is as a food preservative. It is rarely found in skin care products. It should never be taken internally in large quantities because of the risk of calcium overdose. This compound of ascorbic acid and hexyldecanol is the current gold standard in vitamin C derivatives for skin care. It is lipid-soluble, allowing it to easily penetrate the lipid barrier of the skin at a rate up to three times higher than ascorbic acid alone. One of the most important actions of tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is its ability to stimulate glycosaminoglycans, which increase collagen and elastin's ability to retain moisture in the dermis and epidermis. ASCORBYL PALMITATE In the Treatment Room and Beyond This combination of ascorbic acid and palmitic acid is the most common vitamin C derivative in skin care products today. It is considerably more stable than ascorbic acid alone. However, there is debate on whether the concentrations routinely used in products are significant enough to deliver noticeable results. As spa professionals, we can directly impact the health of our clients' skin by choosing the most suitable products. With so many vitamin C products on the market today, it is of utmost importance for estheticians to understand its function, the most appropriate type of vitamin C for a given use, and the percentage that is actually in the products you use and sell. Otherwise, you run the risk of selling your clients a treatment or home-care product that has little to no effect, ultimately causing them to question the validity of your recommendations. Familiarize yourself with different products, observe the results, and find the ones that you like— then share with your clients the rewards available to them in this essential nutrient. CALCIUM ASCORBATE MAGNESIUM ASCORBYL PHOSPHATE (MAP) A water-soluble mixture of ascorbic acid, monodihydrogen phosphate, and magnesium salt, MAP is gaining in popularity, as it is more stable and less abrasive for sensitive skin than ascorbic acid. A study published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology shows MAP may be effective for inhibiting melatonin production when used at 10 percent concentration. Most current skin care formulations use a lower concentration. SODIUM ASCORBYL PHOSPHATE (STAY-C 50) A blend of ascorbic acid, palmitic acid, and trisodium salt, STAY-C 50 is a relatively new form of vitamin C that is more shelf stable than its predecessors and is converted into pure ascorbic acid by enzymes in the body once it is absorbed into the skin. While this is promising for skin care, studies conducted by Australia's National Industrial Chemical Notification and Assessment Scheme indicate that it should not be used in concentrations above 5 percent (0.01–1 percent in sunscreens), as it can cause irritation. Chanda Zaveri is a molecular biologist, a former protégée of Linus Pauling, and the founder and president of Actiogen Corporation, parent company of SkinHealix. She has been a pioneer in the development of skin care, dermaceutical, and woundcare products since 1994. Get connected to your peers @ www.skincareprofessionals.com 29