ASCP Skin Deep

November/December 2013

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Safety first! Always wear gloves during the entire extraction process, including the pretreatments and mask removal. Soften the mask with a warm, damp towel or cotton compression mask before removal. Finish by spraying the face well with a soothing toner and applying a lightweight, non-comedogenic sunscreen. "No makeup for two hours" is a good general rule after an extraction session. Eye makeup and lipstick can be worn immediately, but ask your client to avoid use of foundation, powder, or blush for at least two hours. 6 Think Long-Term Success Even the most perfect extraction session won't help long-term unless the client is also on a good homecare regimen. Educate the client that the right home care will have a direct effect on the success of your professional extractions by helping break down the impactions and allow more of them to be extracted. E This client's home-care regimen of benzoyl peroxide, alpha and beta hydroxy acids, and non-comedogenic products including sunscreen and hydrator produced clear skin with improved skin texture. Design a daily program for the client that contains a 2.5 percent benzoyl peroxide gel or a follicular exfoliant such as alpha/ beta hydroxy acids. Make sure all skin care and makeup products are non-comedogenic. After just two weeks on a good daily regimen, many impactions will have cleared on their own (Image E), and the remaining ones will be much easier to extract at the client's next appointment. Once the skin has completely cleared, monthly professional treatments will maintain clarity. For teen clients, education about home care is doubly important because facial care in general is new to them. Be friendly and understanding. Work with them a little more each visit to gain trust and make them comfortable with the program. If you follow all six of these steps, your clients will be well on their way to clear skin. If you still have difficulty with extraction, I strongly recommend taking a hands-on class, watching a demonstration at a trade show, or purchasing a DVD—these are the best ways to perfect your skills. You may be surprised at how a small change in technique can make a big difference. Mark Lees, PhD, MS, is an award-winning speaker, clinical skin therapist, product developer, and author specializing in acne, sensitive, and aging skin. His latest book is Clearing Concepts: A Guide to Acne Treatment (Milady, 2013). Contact him at info@marklees.com, or view his archived webinars in the Member section at www.ascpskincare.com Get connected to your peers @ www.skincareprofessionals.com 25

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