ASCP Skin Deep

November/December 2013

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Do not attempt to extract multiple impactions at once, even if they are close together. A B A desincrustant premask applied with steam for 8 minutes helps to loosen fatty plugs for easier removal. Negative galvanic current applied over a desincrustant will produce even better results. like dish detergent breaks down the greasy, hardened cooking fat on a frying pan, desincrustants break down and loosen the plug of solidified sebum impacted in the follicle. Galvanic current may also be very helpful, especially when there are a lot of impactions, or when a large portion of them are closed comedones. Apply the current over the desincrustant according to the equipment's and product's instructions (Image B). This will help the desincrustant work more effectively. 2 Avoid fatty skin care products in the treatment room and in the client's home-care regimen. Many products— makeup, moisturizers, serums, sunscreens, and especially products designed for dry or aging skin—contain fats that mimic sebum. For a client with clog-prone skin, this can make matters worse. Make sure all the products you recommend to acne clients have been independently tested and documented as non-comedogenic. Check Your Products Softening the impactions will be a wasted effort if any of the other products you use prior to the extraction part of the facial have a tightening effect on the pores. Check the pH of all your products. Using toner or any acidic product (defined as anything with a pH below 7) can lower the skin's own pH, affecting texture, tightening the skin, and making extraction far more difficult. Save the toner for the end of the facial, after the extractions are complete. If you also plan to use a peel or other acid treatment with this client, schedule that for a separate appointment. Never apply a peel immediately after extracting! 3 Master Your Technique There are many different tools and techniques for extraction, but I believe the most effective are cotton swabs or cotton-tipped gloved fingers. These are also the most comfortable methods for the client. While metal extractors can work, they can also be very uncomfortable and can inflame the skin. Remove the desincrustant thoroughly before beginning extraction. The skin should be clear of product but still slightly moist. Begin at the chin, and focus on the larger impactions first. Work on a single clogged follicle. Do not attempt to extract multiple impactions at once, even if they are close together. In addition to being unproductive, this can cause more discomfort and inflammation. Get connected to your peers @ www.skincareprofessionals.com 21

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