Issue link: https://www.ascpskindeepdigital.com/i/191415
C Cotton swabs are a gentle approach to extraction and also enable very focused manipulations. If your state's scope of practice allows you to use a lancet, you can use one to gently dilate the follicle opening prior to extraction. This is particularly helpful for closed comedones, as the follicle openings can be very small. Dilation of the follicle creates an escape route for the debris and can also produce a pressure-relief effect, making extraction easier and more effective. Using cotton swabs or gloved fingers, apply firm but gentle pressure on either side of the follicle (Image C). The debris should expel easily. If a follicle does not extract easily, don't try it again. Move on to another impaction. 4 Understand You Can't Get Them All Avoid aggressive or excessive extraction, especially during the client's first visit. You do not want him or her to be uncomfortable or to leave your treatment room with an inflamed, red face. Don't try to get everything in one session! Even if you are providing a specialized acne treatment, instead of simply performing quick extractions as part of a spa facial, keep the actual extraction time to 10 minutes or less. Extraction marathons are painful and traumatize the skin. Explain to the client that clearing all the pores is a gradual process. A series of 6–12 weekly or biweekly professional extraction sessions, in combination with your recommended home-care program, will bring steady, significant improvement. D High frequency applied with a soothing serum helps to calm the skin and reduce post-treatment breakouts. 5 You're Not Done Yet Calming the skin immediately after extraction is essential to avoid inflammation and posttreatment flare-ups. Never skip this step! First, if there are many papules and pustules present, lightly apply benzoyl peroxide as an antiseptic. Next, apply a soothing serum. Some suitable ingredients include burdock (Arctium lappa), chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla), coltsfoot (Tussilago farfara), green tea (Camellia sinensis), and soapwort (Saponaria). Apply high frequency over the serum using a mushroom electrode while you allow time for the product to absorb (Image D). Finally, choose a suitable mask that will cool the skin. Apply it to any area with clogged or enlarged pores. If the skin is still very inflamed at this point, use a nondrying gel mask designed for redness and sensitive skin. If there is little or no inflammation, a clay mask is good for skin with impacted follicles. Use clay that contains sulfur for acne clients. Clay masks occasionally sting when applied after extraction, but this usually subsides within a few minutes. Do not allow the mask to dry until it cracks, which can really inflame the skin. Get connected to your peers @ www.skincareprofessionals.com 23