Issue link: https://www.ascpskindeepdigital.com/i/1547015
44 ASCP Skin Deep Autumn 2026 THE LAST MILE In shipping, the last mile is the hardest and most expensive stretch of any delivery. Skin care has a last mile too, and it runs through about 15 microns of stratum corneum. Understanding how a carrier crosses that distance changes what you can offer. You choose products with reasons behind them. You ask questions that earn straight answers. You tell a client what a formula will do and why. That's the power of esthetics, working a few cell layers deeper. Resources Kirjavainen, M., et al. "Interaction of Liposomes with Human Skin in Vitro—The Infl uence of Lipid Composition and Structure." Biochimica et Biophysica Acta 1304 no. 3 (December 1996): 179–89. pubmed.ncbi. nlm.nih.gov/8982264. Kouassi, M–C., M. Grisel, and E. Gore. "Multifunctional Active Ingredient-Based Delivery Systems for Skincare Formulations: A Review." Colloids and Surfaces B: Biointerfaces 217 (September 2022): 112676. pubmed.ncbi. nlm.nih.gov/35797773. Puglia, C., and D. Santonocito. "Cosmeceuticals: Nanotechnology- Based Strategies for the Delivery of Phytocompounds." Current Pharmaceutical Design 25, no. 21 (2019): 2314–22. pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/31584366. Van Hoogevest, P., and A. Fahr. "Phospholipids in Cosmetic Carriers." In Nanocosmetics: From Ideas to Products. Eds. Cornier, J., C. Keck, and M. Van de Voorde. Springer Cham, 2019. link.springer.com /chapter/10.1007/978-3-030-16573-4_6. CHECKING THE MANIFEST Most cosmetic liposomes are built from lecithin, a blend of phospholipids from soy, sunf lower, or egg, with phosphatidylcholine as its largest part. On an ingredient list, look for lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin, phosphatidylcholine, or hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, often with cholesterol nearby as a stabilizer. The word hydrogenation is an obvious and useful giveaway when reviewing an INCI deck. Saturated liposomes resist oxidation and build lamellar structures that reinforce the barrier. Unsaturated liposomes stay f luid at skin temperature and fuse more readily. The choice tells you what the formulator cared about: skin protection or skin penetration. To better understand exactly what's inside the package, four questions can turn a sales pitch full of marketing jargon into a real conversation. Each one can be answered in a sentence, and a brand with real science behind it will enjoy answering all four: 1. What is encapsulated, and how much of the active sits inside the vesicle? 2. What is the particle size, and how was it measured? 3. Which phospholipid is used, and is it hydrogenated? 4. How does the packaging protect the formula from air and light? INGREDIENT DECK UNSPLASH