ASCP Skin Deep

SPRING 2025

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Protection. Education. Connection. There's an app for that at ascpskincare.com/app 35 SKIN PHYSIOLOGY Preservatives Preservatives are essential in product development. First, we must understand the purpose they serve. Preservatives in skin care prevent bacteria, fungus, and mold from growing by killing microbes and/or creating an environment where it is diffi cult for bacteria or mold to survive. This keeps the consumer safe from possible pathogens and product contamination. Preservatives can be naturally occurring or sourced from botanicals, and some can be created within a lab. Some products contain both botanical and synthesized preservatives in their formulations. Both kinds are important in maintaining the integrity of the product and formula and preserving freshness and effi cacy. Common preservatives used in skin care include: • Botanical preservative packages • Citric acid • Phenoxyethanol • Potassium sorbate • Sodium benzoate • Sorbic acid Fragrance As a functional ingredient, fragrance spurs a lot of conversation. To me, fragrance in skin care is a personal choice. Scents and aromas can be naturally derived or synthetic, or a blend of the two. And, of course, some formulas are fragrance-free. Being one of the fi ve senses, scent can be an important part of the skin care experience. Connected to the limbic system, scent can produce emotions and memories. This makes for a powerful eff ect on how someone feels when using a product or receiving a service. The fragrance industry has been represented globally by the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) for more than 50 years. Its main purpose is to ensure the safety of fragrance materials used in personal care products. Whether the fragrance is natural or synthetic, the IFRA monitors, tests, and assesses each blend for safe use in personal care products. The IFRA focuses on establishing strict standards that ban, limit, or set criteria for certain fragrance ingredients based on scientifi c evidence and consumer insights. The stewardship aff orded by the IFRA is highly respected, and its standards are recognized by government authorities and industry trade bodies around the world. A BEAUTIFUL BALANCE Skin care should be a joy, not a chore. You should be looking forward to using your products on yourself and your clients! If we don't like the experience of a product, we likely won't use it. We are sensory beings, and when we enjoy the scent, the application, the texture, and the feeling of a product, we will achieve the results we desire. Cosmetic chemistry is this beautiful balance of technology and esthetics. There is something special when a formula comes together—performance ingredients and functional ingredients in perfect harmony. When you can appreciate the complexity of formulation to not only target concerns but also create a special moment in the day, there is meaning there. That is the power of the science of skin care, and it's pretty amazing. Resources Gerson, J. Milady's Standard Esthetics: Fundamentals. Clifton Park, NY: Delmar, Cengage Learning, 2008. The International Fragrance Association. Accessed February 2025. ifrafragrance.org. US Food & Drug Administration. "Cosmetics." Accessed February 2025. fda.gov/cosmetics.

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