ASCP Skin Deep

SUMMER 2023

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Exclusive member benefit: Get the ASCP SkinPro app at ascpskincare.com/skinpro 89 It's not the product; it's the application by Elleebana This is not an isolated problem limited to the lash industry. In various beauty sectors, such as nails, hair, and skin care, professionals often struggle to achieve consistent results with their products, including adhesives and nail polishes. The big question: Could so many brands truly have inconsistent production processes when creating such simple formulas? Lotions are not complex formulas to produce. When manufacturing a large batch of products, the measurements should be consistent every time. Any deviation in the formula's quantities can lead to poor performance, incorrect emulsification, or instability. Considering the substantial investments brands make and the importance of customer satisfaction, it's highly unlikely they would jeopardize their products by neglecting to mix a batch correctly. After all, when we purchase beverages or shampoos from reputable brands, we expect consistency. Why should lotions be any different? It's improbable that the formulas themselves change significantly; instead, the inconsistency likely comes from the person using the product. As the human body changes throughout life, factors such as lifestyle, hormonal changes, diet, and supplementary intake can alter hair texture multiple times a year. Therefore, it is essential to acknowledge that many brands follow strict policies and production processes, including stability testing, to ensure product efficacy. These tests typically involve performing 50–100 applications on clients, with microbial stability reports confirming the product's safety and effectiveness. Consequently, the likelihood of encountering a genuinely faulty batch is extremely low. When assessing product performance, it is vital to consider the brand's history and reputation. Brands that have been in business for a long time and consistently maintain customers and repeat business are a testament to the efficacy of their products. No brand can survive without repeat business—an indicator that most of its customers have positive experiences. If you find that your lash lift is not achieving the desired results, consider certain factors about the client: • Has their hair texture changed? • Have they made any dietary changes or started using specific nutrients, supplements, or growth serums? • Are they undergoing hormonal changes? These factors can significantly impact the texture of their eyelashes, necessitating adjustments in processing time or technique. You may also consider factors about your application: • Was the lotion placement consistent? • Was it applied from the base of the lashes to an adequate height? • Was it left on for an appropriate duration based on the hair texture? If the lift appears slightly underwhelming but some lift is evident, leaving the lotion to process for a little longer might be all that is needed. Adjusting the lotion placement and ensuring it is applied consistently across the lashes can also make a difference. Interestingly, there's been an increase in clients using various home- care products, lash growth serums, and mascaras because of the pandemic. These factors can also change the texture of your client's lashes—when they come back to have a treatment, their lashes may be more resistant than usual. Resistant lashes are not always thick lashes either; at Elleebana, we've worked on plenty of clients who look like they have thin hair texture, but the lashes are resistant to permanent wave lotions. It really is a case of readjusting the application; most of the time, this resolves the issue. A persistent myth continues to circulate among lash technicians in the industry: "The product doesn't work." It's disheartening to witness the frustration of technicians who blame the product for underwhelming results in their lash lifts. However, it is crucial to shed light on this issue and provide a more accurate perspective.

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