ASCP Skin Deep

AUTUMN 2022

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72 ASCP Skin Deep Autumn 2022 can lead to bacterial overgrowth, sensitivities, and transepidermal water loss. 9 Other factors that can a ect the skin's pH include air pollution, antibacterial products, change in seasons, di erent humidity levels, cosmetics, detergents, sweat, tap water, too much exposure to sun and wind, aggressive treatments, such as microdermabrasion and acid peels, and medical treatments. Acid balanced and pH balanced are two terms that are sometimes confused in the cosmetology industry. When a product says "pH balanced," it means the pH is balanced at a certain number, but not necessarily 4.5– 5.5. Acid balanced means just that—balanced within the acid range of 4.5–5.5. Your task as a professional esthetician is to use products that help maintain the acid balance of the skin at the 4.5–5.5 acid-range levels. In general, when presented with a compromised skin barrier caused by a pH imbalance, look for ingredients that work in a nity with the skin. The basic elements of any strategy for skin health are those that cleanse, moisturize, and protect from UV light. Important ingredients that could be related to acidic pH are lipids and ingredients a ecting the microbiome. Products need to be formulated to have the proper pH value. During the development of products with these ingredients, their e cacy must be investigated in the context of skin pH, among other considerations. 10 For example, seaweed has been shown to have the greatest bio-a nity to the human body—its chemical makeup is closest to the elements found in human plasma. Speci c species of seaweed, such as Laminaria digitata and Ascophyllum nodosum, contain 12 vitamins, 18 amino acids, 42 trace elements and minerals, and phlorotannins—the key elements your skin needs for deep surface hydration and balance. In addition, these seaweeds are a source of many important nutrients, including polyunsaturated fatty acids, enzymes, and bioactive peptides. Essential fatty acids help maintain our skin's barrier, and polysaccharides, such as alginic acid, help lock moisture into our skin. 11 Among marine resources, seaweed is also one of the richest sources of natural antioxidants including the aforementioned phlorotannins, as well as sulfated polysaccharides, fucosterol, and fucoxanthins. 12 You can use a facial treatment to educate your clients on the use of toners and astringents and their importance in restoring the pH balance and skin barrier.

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