Issue link: https://www.ascpskindeepdigital.com/i/1481047
New member benefit! Get the ASCP SkinPro app at ascpskincare.com/skinpro 41 SKIN PHYSIOLOGY contents and atten out to become corneocytes. Keratinization is important for slowing TEWL, waterproo ng the skin, and creating a bu er between the lower and upper layers of the epidermis. Here are the key ingredients in skin care formulas that help support the function of this amazing layer. Seaweed Extract • Contains natural amino acids and polysaccharides for optimal hydration • Rich source of vitamins and minerals that provide antioxidants for cellular support • Creates a protective lm to increase the skin's barrier function and protection Sodium PCA • Constituent of the skin's NMF • Exceptional moisture-binding capabilities • Highly water absorbing; hydrating powerhouse • Noncomedogenic, nonallergenic Ceramides PHOSPHOLIPIDS • Improve barrier repair and function • Natural component of cell membranes that regulate permeability for cellular health SPHINGOLIPIDS • Balanced epidermal lipids that are moisturizing and cell regenerating • Help emulsify oil and water components of the epidermal bilayer STRATUM CORNEUM The stratum corneum (the "corny layer") is the layer of the epidermis we see and touch every day. This is the nal destination of the keratinocyte. It is the outermost layer of the skin and needs to be strong and exible to be healthy. Think of this layer as our physical armor. It protects us from allergens, pathogens, and injury. It's kind of a rock star! This layer is comprised of 15–20 layers of dead skin cells and sheds naturally every day due to a critical function called desquamation.Your skin cells are programmed to desquamate, and this process requires optimal cell health, hydration, and nutrition beginning at their birth in the stratum germinativum.If our skin cells don't shed, it can create concerns such as hyperkeratinization (cellular buildup), acne, and more noticeable ne lines and wrinkles. Regulated desquamation requires hydration (most importantly, water), along with gentle exfoliation for a strong stratum corneum. Check out these skin care ingredients to support your outermost layer of skin. Deuterium Oxide, DO2 (Heavy Water) • Provides higher levels of hydration; more than regular H O • Higher resistance to evaporation • Reduces cellular stress • Elevates functions of other humectants such as hyaluronic acid Fructooligosaccharides • Support healthy probiotic bacteria on the skin • Strengthen skin's immunity, improves microbiome, and protects against pathogens • Increase hydration Alpha Hydroxy Acids Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) loosen and dissolve the glue-like substances that hold skin cells together. GLYCOLIC ACID • Increases desquamation and exfoliation • Smooths out ne lines • Renes pores • Improves texture LACTIC ACID • Enhances exfoliation • Hydrates • Improves uneven hyperpigmentation Sunscreen One skin care product that is important for all the layers of the skin is sunscreen with broad-spectrum protection and at least SPF 30.All the cells in the epidermis are a ected by sun damage. That's right, all of them. The melanocytes and Langerhans cells are particularly vulnerable. UVR can permanently damage these parts of our skin, leading to a multitude of sensitivities. THE RIGHT DECISION When we decide what to use in the treatment room to address client concerns, we must keep in mind each of the skin's layers and understand how we can use skin care ingredients, whether they are from nature or created in a lab.There are so many wonderful ingredients and formulations that provide high- quality actives to function on not only a super cial level, but also a much deeper one. Resources Barrett Hill, Florence. Cosmetic Chemistry. Orewa: Virtual Beauty Corporation, 2009. Draelos, Zoe Diane and Peter T. Pugliese. Physiology of the Skin, 3rd. ed. Carol Stream: Allured Business Media, 2011.