ASCP Skin Deep

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2020

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58 ascp skin deep september/october 2020 Jessner's Solution Jessner's solution is a specialized solution known for its keratolytic effect. This solution is made from a combination of acids, such as resorcinol, lactic acid, and salicylic acid, which are mixed in an ethanol base. Jessner's solution can be used as an effective exfoliating agent for any skin type. The effectiveness of this peel depends on the number of layers applied. The solution can be altered by adjusting the concentration of ingredients while maintaining a safe range for individuals with skin of color. What it's good for: Jessner's solution can be used to treat postinflammatory hyperpigmentation, melasma, acne, pseudofolliculitis barbae, oily skin, and texturally rough skin in individuals with darker skin. Studies show that mixing 10 percent trichloroacetic acid (TCA) with Jessner's provides better results in treating melasma in darker skin than when TCA is used alone. Trichloroacetic Acid TCA is known as the gold-standard peeling agent for lighter skin and is less frequently used for darker skin. The use of higher concentrations of TCA is not advisable in darker skin, as it has a higher range of side effects, including scarring and overtreatment. TCA is best used as a superficial-depth peel in darker skin (10– 20 percent). Preconditioning the skin allows the TCA to penetrate effectively under lower concentrations, decreasing the risk of any potential complications. TCA peels work by precipitating the proteins and stimulating coagulative necrosis of epidermal cells. What it's good for: TCA can be safely used to treat benign pigmented lesions such as seborrheic keratosis, solar lentigines, and freckles in dark-skinned individuals. TAKE CARE Peels can be appropriate and effective for darker skins, as long as estheticians take special considerations according to the client's Fitzpatrick skin type. It's best to start conservatively, pay close attention to reactions and side effects, and then develop a proper treatment plan that includes a series of peels. Resources Al-Waiz, Makram M., and Ali I. Al-Sharqi. "Medium-Depth Chemical Peels in the Treatment of Acne Scars in Dark-Skinned Individuals." Dermatologic Surgery 28, no. 5 (May 2002): 383–87. https://doi.org/10.1046/j.1524-4725.2002.01081.x. Alsaheb, Ramzi A. Abd et al. "Lactic Acid Applications in Pharmaceutical and Cosmeceutical Industries." Journal of Chemical and Pharmaceutical Research 7, no. 10 (2015): 729–35. www.jocpr.com/articles/lactic-acid- applications-in-pharmaceutical-and-cosmeceutical-industries.pdf.

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