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find your dream career! ascpskincare.com/career-toolkits 57 In the exfoliating process, enzymes act as a catalyst to enhance the natural enzymes in the skin by breaking down and dissolving dead skin cells on the skin's surface. The following are chemical peels as they relate to common conditions of darker skin. Glycolic Acid Glycolic, part of the alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) family that occurs naturally in food, is one of the most used acids in the industry. In its raw form, glycolic is crystallized and liquefied to become a vehicle, which determines the penetration and whether it is formulated in a gel or aqueous base. A gel-based vehicle produces a slower delivery of actives. This delivery works best on sensitive skin. Aqueous-based vehicles allow the active ingredient to be delivered rapidly into the stratum corneum, producing an acceleration of cell turnover. This action facilitates significant desquamation of the outer layers, and addresses hyperkeratosis and lightening of pigmentary conditions. What it's good for: The benefit of an aqueous- based vehicle is its ability to carry other ingredients into the epidermal layers. For example, when combined with the application of a skin lightener, this carrier helps to control hyperpigmentation more effectively. Studies show that using a lightening agent with a series of glycolic treatments is significantly more effective in creating an overall lightening of the skin than a single treatment. Lactic Acid Lactic acid is an AHA known for its skin exfoliation and moisturizing effects. It is a natural humectant for both sensitive and dry skin. This agent can be used as a superficial depth peel. The molecules are larger in size, so deeper penetration does not happen as it does in glycolic acid. Lactic acid clears dead cell accumulation on the external layers, exposing the underlying healthy skin that is brighter and has a glow. That is why this agent has better peeling properties. What it's good for: This acid's hydrating properties are great when used as a maintenance peel six weeks after a series of microdermabrasion, salicylic acid, or Jessner's solutions to maintain the skin's moisture level. Mandelic Acid Mandelic acid is an aromatic AHA with a larger molecular structure than glycolic acid. Therefore, this peel penetrates the skin slowly and uniformly and is better tolerated. Mandelic acid works by dissolving the intercellular lipid linkage that holds the dead cells together in the epidermal layer, facilitating the desquamation process. It also works by promoting cell regeneration. Mandelic acid peels have antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. Therefore, they are used to treat post-acne pigmentation. What it's good for: This AHA is highly helpful in treating sensitive skin and rosacea. The lack of irritation, erythema, and burning sensation makes mandelic acid an effective choice in individuals with skin of color. The safety of using this peel is high in darker skin, as it has lower risks of posttreatment complications. Salicylic Acid Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) known for its anti-acne effect. This agent is used in superficial- and medium-depth peels. Salicylic acid is highly beneficial in treating skin conditions, such as acne, postinflammatory hyperpigmentation, and melasma, especially in individuals with dark skin. Salicylic acid works as a pigment- diffusing (keratolytic) agent on the skin. It also has comedolytic properties due to the antibacterial effect present in salicylic acid. BHAs do not work in the same way as AHAs. These agents work with the help of their anti-inflammatory properties, which helps darker (or ethnic) skin individuals with postinflammatory hyperpigmentation. What it's good for: The use of salicylic acid decreases the amount of sebum production, which further helps in the prevention of future acne outbreaks. Salicylic acid also works by decreasing the adhesions between corneocytes by loosening these cells and detaching corneocytes. It's a good all-around peeling agent for acne vulgaris, rosacea, melasma, post- inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and texturally rough skin.