ASCP Skin Deep


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Page 35 of 96 33 Red Alert Advice for helping the redness-prone client by Mark Lees, PhD expertadvice SKIN SOLUTIONS Many clients are concerned and affected by issues of skin redness. These clients may have some form of rosacea, skin irritation, or cumulative sun damage resulting in surface redness, distended capillaries (telangiectasia), or genetically red, splotchy skin. Genetics play a major role in skin coloration. Individuals of Western European descent are more likely to exhibit issues with redness. Persons of Irish, Scottish, British, or Scandinavian background—who tend to be fair-skinned— are more likely to have skin that reddens easily. The Fitzpatrick Scale is a system of skin analysis that types skin based on its lightness or darkness, and how quickly the skin is affected by sun exposure. The Fitzpatrick system ranks skin on a 1–6 scale. People with Fizpatrick Type 1 skin tend to have very light-colored skin, red or blond hair, and blue or green eyes, and burn easily when exposed to the sun. GENERAL RULES FOR REDNESS-PRONE SKIN Avoid heat of all types. Heat causes blood vessels and the blood itself to expand, resulting in redness flares. In clients with rosacea, flares of redness cause production of vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF), a signaling protein made in the cells that causes growth, expansion, and formation of new blood vessels. Heat from sun exposure or other forms of heat exposure to the skin can cause this reaction, as well as immediate redness. Avoid heat-generating skin treatments. This includes prolonged skin steaming (if warm steam is used, administer steam at a distance of at least 15 inches) and sauna treatments. Avoid electric heat masks, heat lamps, exothermic (heat- releasing) masks, and paraffin face masks. Use lukewarm or cool towels instead of hot towels for mask removal. Cool Lucas spray is appropriate and may be very soothing. Invest in a cool steamer. An ultrasonic drum creates water microparticles that present as cool vapor. This permits skin exposure to a hydrating mist without redness-aggravating heat. These ultrasonic steamers are great for all redness-prone issues and postlaser treatments. Long-term cumulative sun exposure can result in chronic skin redness and the formation of multiple telangiectasias.

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