ASCP Skin Deep

JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2019

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34 january/february 2019 Avoid sun. The sun is a major source of ultraviolet ray exposure that can also cause damage to the skin and blood vessels. Long-term cumulative sun exposure can result in chronic skin redness and the formation of multiple telangiectasias. This also includes the avoidance of tanning beds and booths. Spray tans are an acceptable alternative. Avoid stimulating treatments and products. These types of products stimulate blood circulation, and while they may be helpful for mature, drier skin types, they can worsen redness conditions and cause potential flares of redness. Keep the epidermal barrier function intact. Avoid heavy-foaming cleansers that may contain stronger surfactants, as well as drying alcohols that can not only strip surface protective oils but can also act as a solvent for barrier lipids. Redness is a major symptom of an impaired lipid barrier. An impaired barrier allows vital moisture out of the skin and makes it easy for irritants to penetrate the skin's surface, causing inflammation and potential redness. Home care products that contain ceramides can help repair and protect the barrier function. Ceramides can be mixed into everything from sunscreens to night creams and serums, and are important treatment ingredients for redness-prone skin. Use and sell products that have been dermatologist-tested for irritancy and allergy potential. These tested products, in general, are less likely to cause irritation and are less likely to contain ingredients that might cause redness to flare. Avoid fragranced products. Fragrance can be pleasant, but 63 percent of all cosmetic allergic reactions are caused by fragrance! Stay away from fragranced products on this fragile skin type. Be very careful with peels and exfoliating procedures and products. Never peel skin that is currently redness-flared. Overuse of any exfoliants, chemical or mechanical, can cause barrier function issues and result in an irritant reaction. Lightweight low-concentration alpha hydroxy acid or salicylic peels are generally acceptable, as long as they are not used frequently and are not applied to already-flared skin. Use cooling gel (non-drying) masks. Masks containing soothing, antiredness ingredients such as matricaria, green tea, grapeseed extract, sea whip, allantoin, or aloe vera may be helpful in quick redness reduction. Look for these ingredients in serum form for home use as well. By using these general rules to educate your client about redness- prone skin and how to keep it calm, you'll create a loyal clientele who trust you with their skin issues. expertadvice SKIN SOLUTIONS

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