Issue link: https://www.ascpskindeepdigital.com/i/78523
Essential Extractions Refresh your knowledge on a vital aspect of facial services by Gaynor Farmer For many estheticians, performing extractions is the highlight of a facial. There can be great satisfaction in seeing the change from rough-textured, bumpy skin clogged with cellular debris to a smoother, clearer, and healthier-looking complexion. On the other hand, we have to remember it is far from the most enjoyable part of the process for the client. We also have to take into consideration the delicate structure of the skin, with its fragile capillaries and reactive nerve endings. A clumsily performed extraction can mean a dilated capillary, a client silently vowing never to return, or in the worst case, an insurance claim. Preparation Before a facial, update the client's health history (client forms can be found in the member log-in area at www.ascpskincare.com) to ensure you are aware of any medications the client is taking regularly. Blood-thinning medication such as Warfarin, or even aspirin, will increase the likelihood that the client will bruise during extractions. Once the skin has been cleansed, you can prep it for extractions in a number of ways. The goal is to soften, warm, and hydrate the skin before extractions begin. For some skin, steaming is all that is needed to achieve this. But exfoliation will make extractions easier, as the removal of surface skin cells exposes the top of many of the impactions. During your initial skin analysis, make a mental note of where the comedones are. Exfoliation often removes the darker, oxidized top of the impactions, so you may find they are not as visible by the time you are ready to begin extracting. Kimberly Padgett, owner of Kimberly Skin Care in San Francisco, says she spends 15 minutes on pre-extraction skin prep when necessary. "My initial cleanse is quite brief compared to the second cleansing massage, which lasts 5–7 minutes. Sometimes I use papaya, pineapple, and pumpkin enzymes under steam, and use a physical form of exfoliation, too, depending on the condition of the skin. I work a blend of safflower, vitamin E, kukui nut, and jojoba oils into the specific area of extractions using petrissage movements. If I come across any stubborn comedones, I spot-treat them with a serum to further soften the impaction for easier removal." Choosing an Exfoliant In general, the most suitable pre-extraction exfoliants are those with an alkaline pH. This is because alkaline solutions soften proteins (and therefore the skin). Mild acids harden proteins and can make the impactions harder to remove; some skin, however, responds well to hydroxy acid exfoliants. Desincrustation products, which are designed specifically for pre-extraction use, are alkaline. They can be applied locally to the area of comedone buildup, and also have the advantage of softening the impacted fatty acid sebum. They work most effectively when combined with steam, galvanic current, or microcurrent set on the negative pole. 22 ASCP Skin Deep September/October 2012