Issue link: https://www.ascpskindeepdigital.com/i/78523
(For safety reasons, do not use a steamer at the same time as electrical devices.) Enzyme peels also have a slightly alkaline pH and are a great choice of exfoliant. Tools and Technique Protective wear and good lighting are always a must for the comedone removal process. Additional tools depend on the esthetician's own preference. Wrapped fingers, cotton-tipped applicators, and metal extractors each have their good and bad points. Some of the items you'll need for extraction include: • Snugly fitting non-latex gloves or finger cots. • Disinfected comedone extractor, if desired. • Magnifying lamp or illuminated magnifying headset. • Tissues or soft gauze pads. • Cotton-tipped applicators. • Eye protection for client's comfort under bright lighting. Proper organization of all this equipment is essential so that the extractions can be accomplished in the minimum amount of time. Be aware that more hydrated skins are more likely to stay pliable and soft for the duration of extractions, while more dehydrated skin tends to harden and constrict. The wrapped finger method of extraction, in which the skin is lifted and lightly pressed together between the first fingers, is a popular choice when many follicles can be expelled simultaneously. Cotton-tipped applicators can be a useful aid when working with delicate skin prone to dilated capillaries. Metal comedone extractors seem to attract strong opinions from estheticians, either for or against their use. "I never use metal tools, since it is my belief that they cause more damage than good," says Sarah Becker, of Sarah Becker Skin Care in San Francisco. "I use my fingers wrapped in cotton, never tissue, since paper can cause tiny lacerations." Padgett takes the opposite viewpoint. "I use an extractor at an angle with the direction of the follicle," she says. Even for those who prefer not to use a metal comedone extractor during a facial, the tool can be particularly useful for back treatments. The skin on the back is so much thicker than facial skin that it can be challenging to apply enough pressure to remove the follicle contents using any other method. Whatever method you prefer, observe the surrounding tissues constantly as you work on the extractions to ensure the pressure is not having a negative effect on the blood vessels and nerve endings. Watch the amount of pressure being used on darker skin tones—even if you cannot easily see capillary dilation, that does not mean it's not occurring. Heavy-handed extractions on darker skin can lead to discoloration and marking of the skin. And, of course, remember to keep checking with your client that the pressure you are using is within her pain tolerance. Rebalancing the Skin After extractions have been performed, returning the skin to its normal acidic pH will be necessary if a desincrustation product or procedure was used. Post-extraction Get connected to your peers @ www.skincareprofessionals.com 23