ASCP Skin Deep

September | October 2014

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40 ASCP Skin Deep September/October 2014 Integrating Eastern Techniques Two simple tools for a themed facial by Susanne Schmaling All cultures have unique ways to enhance beauty. Techniques that have been used for thousands of years by women in Asia are very popular with many spa clients today, and can make a significant difference to the skin when used correctly. Let's look at two traditional techniques from Asia that can easily be incorporated into a facial service. If you consider yourself a holistic esthetician, then these techniques are right for your niche. Even if your practice is more clinically focused, their soothing and stimulating effects will be useful in many situations, whether you decide to promote the Eastern theme on your service menu or not. Gua Sha Gua sha is a technique used in traditional Chinese medicine (TCM). It is also popular in Cambodia, Indonesia, and Vietnam. Gua sha is normally used on the back, and TCM practitioners believe it cures various ailments by stimulating the circulation. For use on the face, it must be adapted to provide a comfortable and safe experience—true gua sha uses deep friction, raises large red welts, and would be damaging to facial skin. Modified gua sha is used during the exfoliation stage of a facial and should feel no more than stimulating. It is contraindicated for clients with rosacea. Jade Rollers Jade rollers have been used for centuries in China and Japan. They feel wonderful, increase lymph drainage, and reduce inflammation. Because jade is naturally cool to the touch, this tool also helps relieve edema and redness. You can chill the tool more by soaking it in cold water. Gentle rolling around the eyes is very effective against puffiness, and jade rollers are a wonderful way to calm the skin after a chemical peel or microdermabrasion. They also are a great retail item, as they look beautiful and are simple for the client to use at home. Facial Protocol: Essence of the East Here is a step-by-step protocol to incorporate these two modalities into a facial using the product line of your choice. 1. CLEANSE • Cleanse the face with makeup remover and remove with wet gauze. • Apply a second cleanser (a sensitive-skin or pH-neutral cleanser is ideal) and remove with a warm towel or gauze. • Spray the face with a pH-neutral toner. ascp and you: finer points

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