ASCP Skin Deep

July | August 2019

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30 ascp skin deep july/august 2019 Hot Take Guide your clients to proper summertime skin care by Mark Lees, PhD When you think of weather's effect on the skin, you might first think of the drying effects of cold weather—skin dehydration, flakey winter itch, and even frostbite. But hot weather can also be the cause of many different skin issues. ROSACEA Heat is one of the biggest causes of rosacea flares. Rosacea itself is not caused by heat, but sudden surges of blood to the face trigger flares of diffuse redness and/or papules and pustules. Even body heat and increased blood flow from exercise can trigger a rosacea flare. Educate your clients with rosacea and redness issues to avoid any source of heat. This includes exposure to hot weather in the summer, especially prolonged exposure. When the skin does get hot, applications of cool wet compresses or cooling gels can help squelch the heat and perhaps a flare. Using cool products in the treatment room for rosacea and redness- prone clients will also help calm this condition. There are even ultrasonic facial steamers available that produce cool vapor! OILY AND ACNE-PRONE SKIN Clients with oily and acne-prone skin know summer often comes with increased flares of papules, pustules, and comedones. Hot weather can also come with increased humidity. High humidity does not allow sebaceous secretions to dissipate into the air, resulting in more oil on the face. This translates to increased breakouts. There is a higher incidence of teenage acne in the Southeast than any other area of the United States due to the humid climate. In hot weather, clients with oily and acne-prone skin often need to use a slightly stronger cleanser, such as a foaming wash, or, in the case of acne, a medicated foaming wash with an anti-acne agent like benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, or mandelic acid. Switching to a lighter- weight hydrating fluid or switching from a cream to a fluid or gel is a good idea for oily skin. Heavier fats in the vehicle of the product may contribute to increased oiliness in hot and humid weather. Clients sometimes will tell you their acne gets better when they are in the sun. Ultraviolet rays from the sun do kill acne bacteria and they do have a drying effect on oily skin. However, the same sun rays that help these issues also cause long-term skin damage and pigmentation issues like hyperpigmented splotches and sun-related freckles. Additionally, sun exposure increases cell buildup, which can contribute to clogged pores and comedones. Accumulated exposure will eventually cause wrinkles and elasticity issues as well as potential skin cancer issues. So, as always, sunscreen is important. expertadvice SKIN SOLUTIONS

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