ASCP Skin Deep

MARCH | APRIL 2018

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68 march/april 2018 HOPS (Humulus Lupulus) Hops are known for giving beer a wide variety of interesting, bitter flavors. From an herbalist's perspective, hops are used as a tonic (restorative), nervine (support nervous system), diuretic (excess water elimination), and analgesic (pain relief). They are sedative, decrease anxiety, and help promote sleep. Hops also provide a number of skin benefits. Many of the components of hops are anti-inflammatory and have antioxidant properties that protect the skin from free radical damage. They are rich in phytoestrogens, including isoxanthohumol, progesteronic xanthohumol, and 8-prenylnaringenin, which have made hops a useful herb to treat menopause symptoms in women, particularly hot flashes. For skin care, phytoestrogens are also used to keep the skin full and plump, and to improve skin elasticity. Xanthohumol is a flavonoid isolated from the hop plant that has been found in studies to inhibit enzyme activity of elastase and matrix metalloproteinase. This resulted in increased levels of collagen, elastin, and fibrillin proteins, thus strengthening the dermis and reducing wrinkles. 12 Components from hops were found to have antibacterial activity against several species of acne- causing bacteria, suggesting that hops may be useful for the treatment of acne. Extracts were also found to be rich in antioxidants. Naturally occurring xanthohumol, humulones, and lupulones in hops all showed moderate to strong anticollagenase activities. 13 Components from hops were found to have antibacterial activity against several species of acne- causing bacteria, suggesting that it may be useful for the treatment of acne.

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