ASCP Skin Deep

JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2018

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www.ascpskincare.com 47 MAN-FRIENDLY INGREDIENTS When looking to incorporate treatments that cater to the male clientele, look for ones that contain these key ingredients that help to immediately improve the visible appearance of the skin. Hyaluronic acid: Sodium hyaluronate (hyaluronic acid) is a natural moisturizing polysaccharide present in the skin that is known to hold 100 times its weight in water. One study published in 2011 showed that after using the hyaluronic acid-based creams, panelists experienced a significant improvement in skin hydration and overall elasticity compared to a placebo.4 Peptides: Peptides are created when several amino acids link together. Amino acids are the smallest building blocks of protein. Different amounts of links create different forms of peptides. For example, when five amino acids link, they create a pentapeptide. Because the choice and sequencing of the amino acids are so varied, so are the resulting proteins. Peptide combinations include palmitoyl tripeptides (three amino acids), palmitoyl tetrapeptides (four amino acids), and hexapeptide-2 (six amino acids). For cosmetic use, peptides can have an immediate effect on the skin's look by lessening the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and improving the appearance of skin tone. AHA and BHAs: Alpha hydroxy acids, or AHAs, are a group of organic compounds such as glycolic acid (from sugar cane), lactic acid (from sour milk), malic acid (from apples), citric acid (from citrus fruits), and tartaric acid (from grapes). Concentrations of AHAs as low as 5–10 percent have been found to help promote skin exfoliation and create a smoother texture. Salix alba (willow bark extract), extracted from the white willow tree, is a salicylic acid (a beta hydroxyl acid that is keratolytic) that helps reduce oil buildup in the sebaceous glands, which in turn helps reduce the appearance of pore size. This also helps with mild exfoliation of dead skin cells to reveal a more youthful complexion. According to the International Spa Association, men now comprise almost 50 percent of spa clientele. Rather than seeking out spa services to enjoy a luxurious, relaxing atmosphere, men are seeking efficiency, professionalism, good results, and limited downtime.

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