Issue link: https://www.ascpskindeepdigital.com/i/916074
www.ascpskincare.com 67 Expert: Amy Gardner, LightStim What are a few tried-and-true ingredients or treatments? In terms of addressing skin texture, I think the focus in esthetics has been predominately centered around peels and microdermabrasion. In medical practices and medi-spas, laser treatments have been very popular. I think these techniques have been the standard "go-to" treatments over the past several years because they generally create an immediate and visible change in the appearance and feel of the skin. What's a new ingredient or treatment you're excited about? While all of the "tried-and-true" treatments are still widely and appropriately used, we're defi nitely seeing an interest in adjunctive treatments that can be incorporated into these standard protocols in order to build upon results without exposing the skin to overtreatment and overexfoliation. Advanced and highly specialized ingredient technology, LED, and microcurrent have become more popular as the long-term benefi ts of addressing the fundamental needs of skin cells are better understood, and practitioners and clients continue to seek out less invasive and more integrative solutions. Medical microneedling has also become very popular with regard to addressing skin texture, in particular with things like acne pitting and scarring. Cosmetic needling can be useful to help ingredients penetrate the skin, improving its texture and feel. What are some enduring myths that need to be debunked? I would say it's the notion that more frequent aggressive exfoliation is better. Resurfacing techniques can be wonderful tools in the quest for softer and smoother skin, but they should be used judiciously and balanced with treatments designed to nourish and protect the skin's barrier, while helping to support its natural ability to sustain itself. I believe that healthy skin function should be everyone's priority regardless of age. Expert: Brenda Cummings, Lira Clinical What are a few tried-and-true ingredients or treatments? There are many tried-and-true ingredients that have had some success over the years. As a fellow rosacea suff erer, I fi nd vitamin C helps calm infl ammation; in particular, BV-OSC, which is a less irritating form of L-ascorbic acid. Other antioxidants like green tea also help. Hyaluronic acid as a skin barrier and moisturizer helps calm irritated skin. Of course, a quality sunscreen is a must. Anything gentle and nonirritating helps reduce irritation and infl ammation. What's a new ingredient or treatment you're excited about? Mastiha! Mastiha is a resin produced by a tree of the same name, and off ers unique anti-infl ammatory and brightening benefi ts to calm the skin. Laser can certainly help with redness when the blood vessels are large enough to treat, but other hydrating, calming therapies, such as enzyme peels, will help soothe infl ammation in the skin. Proper home care is mandatory. There are topical therapies on the horizon currently in clinical trials. What are some enduring myths that need to be debunked? You cannot cure rosacea, but you can certainly manage it. The cause is still unknown, but can worsen when one is exposed to heat, exercise, sunlight, spicy food, alcohol, and menopause. ROSACEA POOR TEXTURE POOR TEXTURE ROSACEA