Issue link: https://www.ascpskindeepdigital.com/i/916074
www.ascpskincare.com 65 Expert: Shelley Hancock, Shelley Hancock Consulting What are a few tried- and-true ingredients or treatments? My all-time favorite piece of equipment for wrinkles is the Radiancy FSD. My favorite ingredient is RejuvaPlankton from Veta La Palma Preserve in the south of Spain. What's a new ingredient or treatment you're excited about? My newest technique for wrinkle reduction is the Rezenerate. What are some enduring myths that need to be debunked? That wrinkles are a bad thing. I believe that if the overall health of the skin is there, a few wrinkles show life experience and with that should come wisdom! Expert: Danielle Kooken Wachowski, Enlightened Skin Care What are a few tried-and-true ingredients or treatments? There are three types of pigment: superficial (postinflammatory), medium depth (UV), and melasma (hormonal). Know how to identify each and educate clients to get compliance for their home-care regimens, which will empower 80 percent of the results. Chemical peels have been redefined in the last five years with new lightening ingredients such as antipigment stem cells of Madonna lilly, sea fennel, and lilac. Hydration is key to loosening and lifting pigment, so colloidal gold and silver help. Avoid using the drug hydroquinone and seek out natural hexylresorcinol, arbutin, gooseberry, and kojic acid. Be sure to use BV-OSC vitamin C, the only lipid-soluble vitamin C, partnered with retinol to target pigment, increase skin health, and regulate pigment production. Look for these ingredients in peels, and use them in concert with diamond-tipped microdermabrasion and LED lights. " Chemical peels have been redefined in the last five years with new lightening ingredients such as antipigment stem cells of Madonna lilly, sea fennel, and lilac." —Danielle Kooken Wachowski What's a new ingredient or treatment you're excited about? Three weeks of pre-peel home care to sedate and soften pigment production and condition and hydrate the stratum corneum, then lighten with a series of micropeels with LED over three weeks. These modalities, used together, are safe and effective at lifting pigment and restoring skin tone, while reducing the production of future pigment. Be sure you are trained in performing this combination protocol before attempting. What are some enduring myths that need to be debunked? Myth: Physicians educate and monitor how their patients use hydroquinone (HQ). Truth: Most prescribing doctors see 40- plus patients a day and do not inform their patients that HQ should only be used for three months, then stopped for three months. Estheticians should make their clients aware of this if they continue to use HQ, and offer HQ alternatives in the three-month-off period. Myth: For freckles, apply turmeric. Truth: Turmeric applications can actually cause skin discoloration, not cure it. FINE LINES AND WRINKLES FINE LINES & WRINKLES HYPERPIGMENTATION