ASCP Skin Deep

NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2017

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64 november/december 2017 Hydrosols are much less concentrated than essential oils, although they are obtained in a similar distillation process. During distillation, the steam that rises is condensed and collected. The result is a product that contains a very small amount of essential oil, but a much larger amount of distillate water, or hydrolat. Large distillers will often throw away this watery byproduct of the distillation process and only use the essential oil that floats on the surface. Smaller distillers and artisan farmers distill slightly differently, in a way that favors a higher-quality distillate water, and save this valuable portion. These herbal distillates are very skin friendly, much more so than the essential oil. Why? Some essential oils are too concentrated to use directly on the skin and can often cause dermatitis, increase the risk of sensitization to that plant, irritate the eyes, or cause headaches. Essential oils can (and should) be diluted in a carrier oil before using on the skin. Essential oils also have a strong aroma and can be offensive to some, while the distillate water is milder, with an aroma much closer to the plant itself. Hydrosols provide many benefits to the skin. 1. They are pH balanced to the skin (between pH 4–6) so they can be used as toners to help restore the skin's normal acid pH. 2. They are anti-inflammatory and can be used to calm any redness that may occur due to other products. 3. Because they are water-based, they actually hydrate and refresh the skin. INCORPORATING HYDROSOLS One way to use these flower waters is to develop a ritual that ties into your spa. Water symbolizes purification, so a ritual involving herbal distillates might fit right into your spa practice. Water cleanses not only our physical body, but our spiritual bodies as well. Something as simple as pouring a small amount of herbal distillate over your client's hands can help wash away stress. Spritzing a hydrosol on the face can help a client be open to receiving a positive experience, or be a perfect sensory add-on at the end of your treatment. When our customers spritz their face, they often just pause for several seconds with their eyes closed as they take in the aromatic experience. HYDROSOL PROPERTIES In addition to their skin-friendly properties, hydrosols also have aromatherapy properties. You can use them alone or combine different distillates to create your own signature blend. A lavender and rose blend is my favorite, but cucumber and mint is a close second. Here are some distillates and their aromatherapy properties. Chamomile (Matricaria recutita). Chamomile is anti-inflammatory, which makes it great for calming the skin. Take care as some people are allergic to chamomile. The distillate can have a somewhat bittersweet aroma.

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